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Akrotiri and Dhekelia, officially the Sovereign Base Areas of Akrotiri and Dhekelia (SBA), is a British Overseas Territory on the island of Cyprus. The areas, which include British military bases and installations formerly part of the Crown colony of Cyprus, were retained by the British under the 1960 treaty of independence signed by the United Kingdom, Greece, Turkey and representatives from the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities. The territory serves an important role as a station for signals intelligence and provides a vital strategic part of the United Kingdom surveillance-gathering network in the Mediterranean and the Middle East.
History
The Sovereign Base Areas were created in 1960 by the London and Zürich Agreements, when Cyprus achieved independence from the British Empire, as recorded by the United Nations in 1960 as treaty 5476. The United Kingdom desired to retain sovereignty over these areas, as this guaranteed the use of UK military bases on Cyprus, including RAF Akrotiri, and a garrison of the British Army. The importance of the bases to the British is based on the strategic location of the island, at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean, close to the Suez Canal and the Middle East; the ability to use the RAF base as staging post for military aircraft; and for training.
Garrison officers' mess Dhekelia, 1969
In July and August 1961, there were a series of bomb attacks against the pipeline carrying fresh water to the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area. The pipeline was breached by explosions twelve times.
In the early 1970s the U.S. built an over-the-horizon radar named Cobra Shoe, which could observe aeroplane operations and missile tests in southern Russia. This was operated by the RAF on behalf of the USAF. This augmented an earlier British system built in the early 1960s named Project Sandra. The U.S. use of the base was hidden from the Cypriot government due to their sensitivities.
In 1974, following a military coup by the Cypriot National Guard, Turkey invaded the north of Cyprus, leading to the establishment of the internationally unrecognized Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. This did not affect the status of the bases. Greek Cypriots fleeing from the Turkish forces were permitted to travel through the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area and were given humanitarian aid, with those from Achna setting up a new village (Dasaki Achnas or Achna Forest) which is still in the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area. The Turkish advance halted when it reached the edge of the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area to avoid military conflict with the United Kingdom. In the Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area a tented refugee camp was set up at "Happy Valley" (part of the Episkopi Cantonment) to house Turkish Cypriots fleeing from Limassol and the villages surrounding the Area, until in 1975 they were flown out of RAF Akrotiri via Turkey to northern Cyprus. Some Greek Cypriot refugees remain housed on land in the parts of Trachoni and Kolossi villages that fall within the Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area.
In 1974, the British government decided that British forces would be entirely withdrawn from Cyprus, because the sprawling bases had become undefendable in the light of increasing troop demands in Northern Ireland, and because of pressure on the defence budget.[citation needed] The U.S. very strongly objected to any British withdrawal that would result in the United States losing access to GCHQ signals intelligence from Cyprus, since it had lost access to its many signals intelligence bases in Turkey due to its political dispute with Turkey following the invasion of Cyprus. The U.S. agreed to contribute to base costs, and the British cancelled the closure plan. U.S. use of the base increased, such as Lockheed U-2 spy flights on Syria, though flights were generally at night "to avoid local curiosity".
Politics
Current status
The territory is composed of two base areas. One is Akrotiri (Greek: Ακρωτήρι pronounced [akroˈtiri]; Turkish: Ağrotur Turkish pronunciation: [ˈaːɾotuɾ]), or the Western Sovereign Base Area (WSBA), which includes two main bases at RAF Akrotiri and Episkopi Cantonment, plus all of Akrotiri Village's district (including Limassol Salt Lake) and parts of eleven other village districts. The other area is Dhekelia Cantonment (Δεκέλεια Greek pronunciation: [ðeˈceʎa]; Dikelya), or the Eastern Sovereign Base Area (ESBA), which includes a base at Ayios Nikolaos plus parts of twelve village districts.
As of late 2023, based units include:
RAF Akrotiri and Episkopi Cantonment:
No. 903 Expeditionary Air Wing RAF
No. 84 Squadron RAF
1st Battalion, Duke of Lancaster's Regiment
Cyprus Operations Support Unit
Cyprus Military Working Dog Troop
Cyprus Joint Police Unit (CJPU)
Dhekelia Cantonment:
1st Battalion, The Rifles
Joint Service Signal Unit (Cyprus)
Ayios Nikolaos Station, in the ESBA, is an ELINT (electronic intelligence) listening station of the UKUSA Agreement intelligence network. The UKUSA signals intelligence system is sometimes known as "ECHELON".
Governance
The SBAs were retained in 1960 to keep military bases in areas under British sovereignty, along with the rights retained to use other sites in what became the territory of the Republic. That makes them different from the other remaining British Overseas Territories.
The basic philosophy of their administration was declared by the British government in Appendix O to the 1960 treaty with Cyprus, which provided that the British government intended:
Not to develop the Sovereign Base Areas for other than military purposes.
Not to set up and administer "colonies".
Not to create customs posts or other frontier barriers between the Sovereign Base Areas and the Republic.
Not to set up or permit the establishment of civilian commercial or industrial enterprises except insofar as these are connected with military requirements, and not otherwise to impair the economic, commercial or industrial unity and life of the Island.
Not to establish commercial or civilian seaports or airports.
Not to allow new settlement of people in the Sovereign Base Areas other than for temporary purposes.
Not to expropriate private property within the Sovereign Base Areas except for military purposes on payment of fair compensation.
Appendix O also provides that various ancient monuments in the SBAs (in particular the site and remains of Kourion, the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates near Kourion, the Stadium of Curium and the Church and remains of the Holy Monastery of St Nicholas of the Cats) should be administered by the Republic of Cyprus. The Cypriot government issues licences for antiquity excavation in the SBAs subject to British consent, and any movable antiquities found in excavations or otherwise discovered become Cypriot state property.
According to the British Ministry of Defence:
Because the SBAs are primarily required as military bases and not ordinary dependent territories, the Administration reports to the Ministry of Defence in London. It has no formal connection with the Foreign and Commonwealth Office or the British High Commission in Nicosia, although there are close informal links with both offices on policy matters.
The territory is administered by an Administrator, who is also the Commander of British Forces Cyprus, which as of September 2022 is Air Vice-marshal Peter J. M. Squires. The Administrator is officially appointed by the British monarch on the advice of the Ministry of Defence. The Administrator has all the executive and legislative authority of a governor of an overseas territory. A Chief Officer is appointed, and is responsible to the Administrator for the day-to-day running of the civil government, with subordinate Area Officers responsible for the civil administration of the two areas. No elections are held in the territory, although British citizens are normally entitled to vote in United Kingdom elections (as British Forces or overseas electors).
The areas have their own legal system, distinct from the United Kingdom and the Republic of Cyprus. This consists of the laws of the Colony of Cyprus as of August 1960, amended as necessary. The laws of Akrotiri and Dhekelia are closely aligned with, and in some cases identical to, the laws operating within the Republic of Cyprus. The Court of the Sovereign Base Areas is concerned with non-military offences committed by any person within Akrotiri and Dhekelia, and law and order is maintained by the Sovereign Base Areas Police, while offences involving British Forces Cyprus and military law are dealt with by the Cyprus Joint Police Unit. Fire and rescue services are provided by the Defence Fire and Risk Management Organisation through stations at Episkopi, Akrotiri, Dhekelia and Ayios Nikolayos. The Defence Medical Services provide emergency ambulance cover based from medical centres in the main bases. All emergency services are accessible from any telephone using the Europe-wide emergency number 112.
Reviews
In January 2010, a newspaper article appeared in the British press claiming that as a result of budgetary constraints arising from the Great Recession, the British Ministry of Defence drew up controversial plans to withdraw the United Kingdom's 3,000 strong garrison and end the use of Cyprus as a staging point for ground forces. The Labour government, under whom the proposal appeared, was replaced by the Cameron–Clegg coalition whose defence review did not mention the issue.
On 15 December 2012 in a written statement to the House of Commons, the UK's Secretary of State for Defence, Philip Hammond, revealed the findings of a report on the SBA military bases following the completion of a review of their operations by Lord Ashcroft:
The Sovereign Base areas are in a region of geo-political importance and high priority for the United Kingdom's long term national security interests ... Our military personnel, United Kingdom civilians and locally employed personnel in the Sovereign Base Areas make a major contribution to the national security of the United Kingdom and will continue to do so in the future.
Dispute and controversies
The Republic of Cyprus claims that the Sovereign Base Areas are a "remnant of colonialism". On 30 June 2005 the House of Representatives of Cyprus unanimously adopted a resolution on the legal status of the base areas originally proposed by Vassos Lyssarides. The resolution refers to "relevant UN decisions on the abolition of colonialism, as well as the fundamental principles of international law, which forbid the occupation of territory within the domain of any other country." It claims that "the United Kingdom does not have substantial sovereignty over the British bases, but it has as much sovereignty as is necessary for military reasons and not for administrative, financial and / or any other reasons." The resolution urged the UK government "to fulfil its financial obligations towards the Republic of Cyprus, which derive from the Treaty of Establishment." It also argued that the UK does not have territorial waters in the areas.
The UK government does not recognise Cypriot claims that the UK's sovereignty in the areas is limited.
In July 2001, protests were held at the bases by local Cypriots, unhappy with British plans to construct radio masts at the bases as part of an upgrade of British military communication posts around the world. Locals claimed the masts would endanger local lives and cause cancer, as well as have a negative effect on wildlife in the area. The British and Cypriot governments jointly commissioned health research from the University of Bristol and the Ministry of Health of the Republic of Cyprus, and that research project reported in 2005 that there was no evidence of health problems being caused by electromagnetic fields from the antennas. The Sovereign Base Areas Administration has carried out assessments and surveys into the effects on wildlife, which have fed into an "Akrotiri Peninsula Environmental Management Plan", published in September 2012.
In 2004, the UK offered to cede 117 square kilometres (45 sq mi) of farmland as part of the rejected Annan Plan for Cyprus.
On 29 August 2013, during the Syrian civil war, some Cypriot and British media sources speculated that long-range ballistic missiles, fired from Syria in retaliation for proposed British involvement in military intervention against the Syrian government of Bashar al-Assad, could hit Cyprus, and could potentially deliver chemical weapons. In some Cypriot media it was stated that the proposed interdiction of the Syrian civil war, utilising Akrotiri and Dhekelia, could recklessly endanger the Cypriot populations near to those bases. Two days earlier, on 27 August 2013, Cypriot foreign minister Ioannis Kasoulides had moved to calm Cypriot concerns, saying that the British bases were unlikely to play a major part in any intervention.
Travel documents
There is normally no passport check at the border from Akrotiri or Dhekelia to Cyprus. Possession of a passport, or an EU-compliant national identity card is generally needed in Cyprus. A passport is required to travel between Cyprus/SBAs and Northern Cyprus. Issues concerning the validity of car insurance and customs are specified by SBAs' administration.
Brexit implications
Under Article 2(1) of the Protocol, the SBAs are partially part of the European Union Customs Union in three domains: VAT, agriculture and fisheries. However, the SBAs are already outside the EU. Therefore, concerns have been raised about the future status of about 15,000 Cypriots (EU citizens) working in the SBA following the UK's 2020 departure from the EU. Cyprus, Republic of Ireland and Spain are the only three EU states that conducted bilateral talks with the UK on the Brexit issue. The talks between the UK and the Republic of Cyprus started in October 2017.
The Brexit withdrawal agreement has a protocol on the SBAs, with provisions essentially maintaining their previous status.
Geography
Akrotiri and Dhekelia cover 3% of the land area of Cyprus, a total of 254 km2 (98 sq mi) (split 123 km2 (47 sq mi) (48.5%) at Akrotiri and 131 km2 (51 sq mi) (51.5%) at Dhekelia). 60% of the land is privately owned as freeholds by Cypriot citizens; the other 40% is controlled by the Ministry of Defence as Crown leasehold land. In January 2014, an agreement between the Cypriot and UK governments was signed, ensuring that residents and property owners in the British Bases will enjoy equal rights for the development of property. In addition to Akrotiri and Dhekelia, the Treaty of Establishment also provided for the continued use by the British Ministry of Defence and the British Armed Forces of certain facilities within the Republic of Cyprus, known as Retained Sites.
Akrotiri is located in the south of the island, near the city of Limassol (or Lemesos). Dhekelia is in the southeast, near Larnaca. Both areas include military bases, as well as farmland and some residential land. Akrotiri is surrounded by territory controlled by the Republic of Cyprus, but Dhekelia also borders on the United Nations (UN) buffer zone and the area controlled by the Turkish forces.
Ayia Napa lies to the east of Dhekelia. The villages of Xylotympou and Ormideia, also in the Republic of Cyprus, are enclaves surrounded by Dhekelia. The Dhekelia Power Station, divided by a British road into two parts, also belongs to the Republic of Cyprus. The northern part is an enclave, like the two villages, whereas the southern part is located by the sea, and therefore not an enclave, though it has no territorial waters of its own.
Territorial waters of 3 nautical miles (5.6 km) are claimed, and the right according to the laws of the UN to extend the claim of up to 12 nautical miles (22.2 km) is reserved.
Cyprus is an important migration flyway for birds between Africa and Europe and millions of birds are killed yearly as they migrate over the island. To protect resident and migratory birds, BirdLife Cyprus and the RSPB survey areas of illegal trapping. More than 150 species of birds, over half of conservation concern, have been trapped in nets, or on limesticks, and it is estimated that organised crime gangs earn over 15 million Euros yearly. The dead birds are sold to provide the main ingredient for ambelopoulia — an illegal delicacy — in the Republic of Cyprus. The 2015 survey estimated a maximum 19 km (12 mi) of mist nets across both the Republic and the British Territories, and more than 5,300 limesticks removed, mainly in the Republic. It is estimated that over 2 million birds were killed in 2015 including over 800,00—0 on British Territories.[49][50] Employing measures such as covert camera surveillance (including a drone), exclusion zones and impounding vehicles, trapping activity at Dhekelia fell by 77.5%. In 2016 an estimated 800,000 birds were killed at Dhekelia and in the following year trapping activity fell by 77.5% and bird deaths to an estimated 180,000.
The Episkopi Cliffs Important Bird Area lies mostly within the western base area, and covers much of the peninsula. It was identified as an IBA in 1989, and became recognised under the Ramsar Convention in 2003. 60% was designated as a Special Protection Area in 2010. Over 300 bird species have been recorded in this area. The wetlands, including the large salt lake, are an important habitat and bird hotspot. These wetlands are an important breeding spot for the ferruginous duck, which has nested there since 2005. Other species that nest in the wetlands include the black-winged stilt, the Kentish plover, the spur-winged lapwing, and the stone-curlew. Black francolins, Cyprus wheatears, Cyprus warblers, Eleonora's falcons, peregrine falcons, griffon vultures, European shags, European rollers, blue rock thrushs, and wallcreepers breed elsewhere in the area, especially around the cliffs.
The beaches in the British Sovereign Base Areas (SBAs) are important nesting sites for the endangered green Chelonia mydas and loggerhead Caretta caretta turtles. The SBA Environment Department, assisted by a large volunteer effort, has monitored turtle nesting success on SBA beaches since 1990. Disturbance to nesting turtles is an issue in some areas due to activities such as camping, driving on beaches and illegal fishing. Sea turtles in Cyprus are protected as priority species under the Protection and Management of Nature and Wildlife Ordinance (implementing the provisions of the Habitats Directive), enacted in 2007.
In December 2015, five Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) were designated in the Cyprus Sovereign Base Areas. The five SACs designated are Akrotiri, Episkopi, Cape Pyla, Dhekelia and Agios Nikolaos. The designations were made under the Protection and Management of Nature and Wildlife Ordinance and will support the existing network (NATURA 2000) of SACs in Cyprus and across Europe.
Demographics
When the areas were being established, the boundaries were deliberately drawn to avoid centres of population. Approximately 18,195 people live in the areas. About 11,000 native Cypriots work in the areas themselves, or on farmland within the boundaries of the areas. The British military and their families make up the rest of the population.
Persons related to the territory may in theory be eligible to claim the British Overseas Territories citizenship (BOTC status) through a personal connection to the areas (i.e., birth on the territory before 1983, or born after 1983 to a parent who was born on the territory before 1983). But unlike most other British Overseas Territories, there is no provision in the 2002 amendment of the British Nationality Act 1981 by which British citizenship (with the right of abode in the United Kingdom) can either be claimed through automatic entitlement or be applied for by means of registration, from or through a sole personal connection to the Base Areas (in comparison, the 2002 Act bestowed British citizenship on all other BOTCs). Hence, non-British and non-military personnel with the connection to the territory cannot live and work in the UK and must use their Cypriot passports to apply for visas to the UK.
Under the terms of the 1960 agreement with Cyprus establishing the Sovereign Base Areas, the United Kingdom is committed not to use the areas for civilian purposes. This was stated in 2002 as the primary reason for the exclusion of the areas from the scope of the British Overseas Territories Act 2002.[citation needed] As of 2010, around 7,195 service personnel of British Forces Cyprus are based at Akrotiri and Dhekelia.
Education
Service Children's Education oversees education for children of personnel and MoD employees. The Eastern Sovereign Base Area is served by Dhekelia Primary School and Ayios Nikolaos Primary School, which are feeders for King Richard School. The Western Sovereign Base Area is served by Episkopi Primary School and Akrotiri Primary School, which are feeders for St. John's School.
Economy
No economic statistics are gathered for Akrotiri and Dhekelia. The main economic activities are the provision of services to the military, as well as limited agriculture. When the territory under the effective control of the Republic of Cyprus switched currencies from the Cypriot pound to the euro on 1 January 2008, Akrotiri and Dhekelia followed suit making the Sovereign Base Areas the only territory under British sovereignty to officially use the euro.
Transport
Cypriot motorways pass through both areas. There is no public airport within the areas, but the RAF Akrotiri airbase is located there, which has a runway suitable for long-distance flights, but is not used for public flights.
Communications
The Base Areas form part of the Republic of Cyprus telephone numbering plan, using the international prefix +357. Landline numbers are in the same eight-digit format, with the last four digits being the line number. Numbers in Dhekelia begin with the digits 2474, while those in Akrotiri begin with the digits 2527.
Postal services are provided by the British Forces Post Office, with mail to Akrotiri being addressed to BFPO 57 and mail to Dhekelia and Ayios Nikolaos being addressed to BFPO 58.[60] Cyprus Postal Services provides postal service for civilian homes and businesses within the Base Areas, then using Cypriot postal codes and "Cyprus" as country on letters from abroad.
The bases are issued different amateur radio call signs from the Republic of Cyprus. Amateur radio stations on the bases use the International Telecommunication Union prefix of "ZC4", which is assigned to Great Britain. There are about 52 amateurs licensed in this manner. Amateur radio direction finding identified RAF Akrotiri as the location of the powerful but now defunct shortwave numbers station "Lincolnshire Poacher". Several curtain antennas there have been identified as being used for these transmissions.
Culture
BBC World Service transmitter masts in Akrotiri
Media
BFBS Radio 1 and 2 are broadcast on FM and can be widely received across Cyprus. BFBS Television is now only available to viewers via satellite, having been confined to the SBAs or encrypted in 1997 for copyright reasons, before BFBS switched off its analogue transmitters in 2009. The British East Mediterranean Relay Station was situated locally.
Kamera: Olympus µ[mju:]-II Zoom 80
Linse: Olympus 38-80mm, f/4.5-8.9
Film: Kodak 5222 @ ISO 400
Kjemi: Fomadon Excel (stock / 9 min. @ 20°C)
Middle East Eye: Holding Israeli soldiers accountable worldwide for war crimes (Publ. 10 April 2025)
Bogotá / Brussels — April 23, 2025: The Hind Rajab Foundation has formally filed a criminal complaint with the Colombian Attorney General’s Office against Gabriel Ben Haim, an Israeli-French dual national and active-duty sniper in the Israeli military [Refaim sniper unit, 35th Paratroopers Brigade], for his alleged involvement in grave violations of international humanitarian law, war crimes, and crimes against humanity perpetrated during Israel’s 2024–2025 military campaign in Gaza. *Last seen in Cartagena / Cocora Valley*- Read More -
Washington, D.C. / Brussels, April 17, 2025: The Hind Rajab Foundation has filed a request for prosecution in the United States against Yuval Shatel, an Israeli soldier from the [exclusively jewish ultra-orthodox (Haredi)] 435th Rotem Battalion of the Givati Brigade accused of serious violations of international humanitarian law during Israel’s military campaign in Gaza. *Last seen in Texas* - Read More -
London, April 16, 2025: - An arrest warrant is being urgently sought for a senior member of Israel’s security cabinet, Foreign Minister Gideon Sa’ar (b. 1966) during his visit to the UK. The charges focus in particular on the siege of Kamal Adwan Hospital at the end of 2024, which culminated in the abduction and torture of the hospital director, Dr Hussam Abu Safiyeh (b. 1973). - Read More -
Bucharest, March 31, 2025 - Today, the Hind Rajab Foundation, through its legal representative, has filed a criminal complaint before the Romanian Prosecutor’s Office attached to the High Court of Cassation and Justice against Orel Benyaish, an Israeli soldier from the 432nd Battalion of the Givati Brigade. He is accused of committing war crimes and acts of genocide during Israel’s ongoing military operations in the Gaza Strip. - Read More -
Brussels, March 29, 2025 – The Hind Rajab Foundation has filed a criminal complaint in Germany against Barel Kriel, a German-Israeli dual national and a tank commander in the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF), for his involvement in serious war crimes committed during Israel’s military assault on Gaza. Despite the visual and testimonial evidence submitted, the German Prosecution has so far refused to open an investigation—failing to apply both German national law and its obligations under international law. - Read More -
24/3/2025 - Kathmandu, Nepal – The Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) has officially filed a formal request with the Nepalese authorities to immediately arrest Lieutenant Amit Nechmya and extradite him to Argentina, where a legal case remains open against him for war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide. - Read More -
5/3/2025 - The Hind Rajab Foundation has officially filed a criminal complaint against Shay Friedman, an Israeli soldier suspected of participating in war crimes and crimes against humanity in Gaza. The complaint, submitted to the German authorities, outlines serious allegations, including aiding and abetting murder, genocide, and other grave offences under both German and international law. - Read More -
16/2/2025 – The Hague / Brussels - The Hind Rajab Foundation has officially filed a complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC), seeking an arrest warrant for Gideon Sa’ar (b. 1966), the Foreign Minister of Israel, for war crimes and crimes against humanity committed during Israel’s ongoing military assault on Gaza since October 7, 2023.
Sa’ar, a senior member of Netanyahu’s government and a key figure in Israel’s decision-making, has played a central role in shaping and implementing policies that have led to mass displacement, collective punishment, and systematic attacks on Palestinian civilians. His public statements and policy endorsements indicate direct and indirect participation in these crimes, as well as incitement to violence and obstruction of international justice mechanisms. - Read More -
11/2/2025 - Dossier: The Yuval Vagdani Case –– How Filming Home Demolitions in Gaza Forced Vagdani to Flee His Holiday Destination Brazil. This article recounts the key details of the international criminal case filed by the Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) in Brazil against Yuval Vagdani, tracing the pivotal moments and their aftermath. After participating in civilian home demolitions in Gaza—posing and smiling for pictures while planting explosives and laughing amid the destruction—Vagdani decided to take a vacation in Brazil. Despite his actions, which amount to war crimes under international law, he believed himself untouchable, far from the reach of accountability. Little did he know, what was to come. - Read More -
8/2/2025 - The HRF filed a case with the ICC requesting the issuing of an arrest warrant for one of the IDF's most notorious war criminals. The name of Brigadier General Yehuda Vach, commander of the Israel Defense Forces' (IDF) 252nd Division, has become synonymous with unrestrained brutality, sadism, and corruption. His deliberate and systematic targeting of Palestinian civilians, particularly in the Netzarim Corridor, amounts to genocide, crimes against humanity, and war crimes under the Rome Statute. - Read More -
5/2/2025 - Bern, Switzerland – The Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) confirms that it has formally filed a criminal complaint before Swiss authorities, leading to the opening of an investigation into a suspected Israeli war criminal currently present in Switzerland. The complaint provides extensive evidence implicating the individual in war crimes and crimes against humanity, including attacks on civilians, destruction of homes and hospitals, forced displacement, and other grave violations of international law committed in the Gaza Strip. - Read More -
28/1/2025 - The Hind Rajab Foundation has initiated a groundbreaking legal action in Belgium by filing a formal criminal complaint against Amichai Chikli (b. 1981), Israel's Minister for Diaspora Affairs and the Fight Against Antisemitism. The complaint, submitted by Dyab Abou Jahjah (b. 1971), president of the foundation, accuses Minister Chikli of making terrorist threats against him, a Belgian national, with the intent to intimidate and suppress the foundation’s advocacy for justice and accountability for war crimes. - Read More -
23/1/2025 - The Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) has filed a complaint with the ICC and called for the immediate arrest of Rabbi Avraham Zarbiv, an Israeli soldier in the Givati Brigade, based on his individual criminal responsibility under Article 25(3)(a) of the Rome Statute. Zarbiv stands accused of committing grave war crimes and crimes against humanity during the Israeli military campaign in Gaza, which began in October 2023. - Read More -
22/1/2025 - The Hind Rajab Foundation has initiated legal proceedings against Dror Zvi Bauer, an Israeli soldier in the 614th Battalion, Engineering Corps, accused of war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide during the ongoing onslaught on Gaza since October 2023.
Legal complaints have been filed with the International Criminal Court (ICC) as well as with national authorities in Austria, Germany, and other European jurisdictions. These actions underscore the Foundation’s commitment to utilizing every available legal mechanism to ensure accountability for international crimes. - Read More -
18/1/2025 - Barcelona -- The Hind Rajab Foundation and the Palestinian Community in Catalonia have filed an urgent legal complaint against Sergeant Mori Keisar of the Israeli Defense Forces (Givati Brigade, 435 Battalion, Mitzvait Company, Retek Platoon). The complaint, filed under Spanish and international law, accuses Keisar of genocide, crimes against humanity, and war crimes during the Israeli military operation in Gaza. The actions of Keisar and his platoon demonstrate systematic violations of international humanitarian law, targeting civilians and protected infrastructure. - Read More -
15/1/2025 - Thailand / The Hague - The Hind Rajab Foundation has filed a formal complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC) against Guy Azran, a soldier from the 432nd Battalion of Israel’s Givati Brigade, for war crimes committed during military operations in Gaza City, July 2024. These crimes are substantiated by video and photographic evidence documenting his actions, which constitute serious violations of international law. Azran is currently vacationing in Thailand. A request for his arrest have been submitted to Thai authorities. - Read More -
13/1/2025 - Major General Ghassan Alian (b. 1972), Head of the Coordinator of Government Activities in the Territories (COGAT), is currently in Rome, Italy. The Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) has filed cases with the International Criminal Court (ICC) and Italian authorities, urging his immediate arrest for genocide, crimes against humanity, and war crimes. Alian, who publicly referred to Palestinians in Gaza as "human animals," has no immunity from prosecution. Time is of the essence to ensure accountability for his actions. - Read More -
9/1/2025 - Stockholm, Sweden - The Hind Rajab Foundation has taken another significant step in its quest for justice by filing a legal complaint against Boaz Ben David, an Israeli sniper from the 932 Battalion of the Nahal Brigade. The complaint, filed with Swedish authorities, accuses Ben David of committing war crimes, crimes against humanity, and possible acts of genocide during the recent military operations in Gaza. This move follows growing international calls to hold perpetrators of grave crimes accountable, ensuring justice for victims of the ongoing genocide in Gaza. - Read More -
6/1/2025 - Buenos Aires, Argentina - On January 2, 2025, the Hind Rajab Foundation filed a legal case against Lieutenant Amit Nechmya, a platoon commander in the Latak Platoon of the Givati Brigade’s Rotem Battalion (435). Led by our lawyer Rodolfo Yanzón in Argentina, the case charges Nechmya with war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide. - Read More -
3/1/2025 - Brasilia, Brasil - In a historic legal development, Brazilian authorities have taken decisive action on a criminal complaint filed a week ago by the Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) against an Israeli soldier currently in Brazil on tourism. The Federal Court of the Federal District, following the Federal Prosecutor’s agreement, has issued an urgent order for the police to investigate and take action against the suspect, marking a pivotal step toward accountability for crimes committed in Gaza. - Read More -
31/12/2024 - On December 31, 2023, Omri Nir, a soldier in the Israeli Defense Forces' Combat Engineering Battalion 601, posted a photo on Instagram where he is seen posing inside a house in Gaza—a house that once belonged to a Palestinian family killed or displaced during Israel's genocide. The photo, a chilling display of impunity, was meant to be a personal trophy of sorts, showcasing his role in the Gaza genocide.
Fast forward to this year, as Omri Nir travels to Thailand to celebrate New Year’s Eve once again, the world looks very different for him. The Hind Rajab Foundation, committed to bringing perpetrators of war crimes to justice, has detected his presence in Thailand and acted decisively. - Read More -
26/12/2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation has initiated legal actions in Argentina and Chile against Saar Hirshoren, a member of Israel's 749 Combat Engineering Battalion who is currently present there. Mr. Hirshoren is accountable for war crimes committed in Gaza, the HRF is demanding his immediate arrest. Simultaneously, a comprehensive complaint has been filed with the International Criminal Court (ICC) targeting the entire battalion and its leadership for war crimes, crimes against humanity and genocide. - Read More -
20/12/2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation has formally filed a detailed complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC) against Israeli war criminal Lidor Kandalker, demanding his immediate arrest and prosecution. Kandalker, currently in Thailand, is a member of the Rovait Gaesh (Volcano Company), a combat engineering unit notorious for the systematic and deliberate destruction of civilian infrastructure in Gaza.
Key evidence submitted to the ICC includes a video in which Kandalker is seen counting down before detonating explosives that destroy a civilian home in Gaza. The footage captures him celebrating with his comrades afterward, boasting about the destruction. This shocking display underscores his direct involvement in war crimes and crimes against humanity.
In addition to filing the ICC complaint, the Hind Rajab Foundation has notified Thai authorities, including the police, the Ministry of Justice, and the Thai Embassy in The Hague. The foundation has urged them to apprehend Kandalker, prevent his escape, and fulfill their international obligations to ensure accountability for his crimes. - Read More -
17/12/2024 - Colombo, Sri Lanka - The Hind Rajab Foundation has located Gal Ferenbook, an Israeli soldier responsible for the death of a Palestinian civilian and the degrading treatment of their body, in Colombo, Sri Lanka. The Foundation has formally demanded that Sri Lankan authorities arrest him immediately and cooperate with the International Criminal Court (ICC). A formal complaint has also been submitted to the ICC, and the case has been communicated to Interpol to issue an international Red Notice for his apprehension. - Read More -
6/12/2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation is filing an urgent legal complaint in France against Roi Hakimi, an Israeli soldier implicated in acts of torture and enforced disappearances during the recent Israeli assault on Gaza. Mr. Hakimi is currently on a tourism visit in France. - Read More -
3/12/2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation, in collaboration with the March 30 Movement, has taken a firm stance against the appointment of Colonel Moshe Tetro as Israel’s military attaché to Belgium. Citing his direct involvement in war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide during his tenure as the head of the Coordination and Liaison Administration for the Gaza Strip (CLA), the foundation is calling on the Belgian government to deny his accreditation. The Hind Rajab Foundation has also filed a detailed complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC), demanding immediate action against Tetro. - Read More -
29/11/2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation, in partnership with the March 30 Movement and through the office of attorney Haroon Raza, has filed a complaint demanding the immediate arrest and prosecution of three IDF soldiers who entered Amsterdam yesterday. The individuals involved are Yehuda Tsfa, Yotam Shmuelevich, and Liran Magal, members of the Latak Unit of the 932 “Granit” Battalion, accused of engaging in the destruction of civilian properties in Gaza without any military necessity. - Read More -
27/11/2024 - Rotterdam, 27 November 2024 – The Hind Rajab Foundation, in partnership with the March 30 Movement, has filed a formal complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC) against Israeli soldier Liam Shkedi. The complaint alleges Shkedi’s involvement in war crimes, crimes against humanity, genocide, and crimes of aggression, calling for his immediate arrest and prosecution. - Read More -
18/11/2024 - Brussels, November 18, 2024 – The Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) is actively investigating reports from journalistic sources of a possible detention in Cyprus related to Elisha Livman, an Israeli reserve officer accused of war crimes in Gaza. Despite this development, Livman managed to flee Cyprus with direct assistance from the Israeli state, according to the Israeli newspaper Israel Hayom. This brazen intervention is a stark example of state-sponsored impunity, undermining international law and obstructing justice. - Read More -
14/11/2024 - Limassol, Cyprus, 14 November 2024 – The Hind Rajab Foundation (HRF) has lodged an urgent complaint with Cypriot authorities, calling for immediate action against Elisha Livman, a lieutenant in the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF), currently visiting Cyprus on a tourist visa. Livman, an officer in the T80 Infantry Unit, Sayeret Givati, have committed serious war crimes and exhibited genocidal intent in recent military operations in Gaza. - Read More -
Amsterdam, November 10, 2024 — The Amsterdam Police have officially opened an investigation into recent violent incidents involving Maccabi Tel Aviv supporters following a complaint filed by the Hind Rajab Foundation and the March 30 Movement. These disturbing events, which unfolded in the city center, have sparked widespread concern across the Netherlands and internationally. - Read More -
Amsterdam, November 9, 2024 – The Hind Rajab Foundation, in partnership with the March 30 Movement, has taken an urgent legal step to combat rising instances of hate-fueled violence in Europe. Following disturbing incidents in Amsterdam, the two organizations have submitted a formal criminal complaint to the Amsterdam Public Prosecutor’s Office, seeking immediate action against supporters of Maccabi Tel Aviv who have reportedly engaged in acts of incitement, violence, and vandalism. - Read More -
7/11/2024 - London, United Kingdom – November 6, 2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation has taken a significant step in the pursuit of international justice by submitting a formal request to the Metropolitan Police Service (MPS) in the United Kingdom. The letter calls for a comprehensive investigation into alleged war crimes committed by Alon Elgali, Chief Executive Officer of Meshek Afar Limited, a company contracted by the Israel Defence Forces (IDF). Mr. Elgali is currently present in the United Kingdom, where he is alleged to be involved in actions that may constitute grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions and international humanitarian law. - Read More -
24/10/2024 - Guayas, Ecuador – The Hind Rajab Foundation, in partnership with the March 30 Movement, has filed a ground-breaking legal complaint with the Ecuadorian authorities. The complaint targets Ecuadorian citizen Sahar Enrique Cohen for his involvement in war crimes and crimes against humanity committed during the Israeli military’s assaults on Gaza. The complaint, submitted to the Criminal Court of Guayas, seeks prosecution under Ecuadorian and international law for Cohen’s participation in systematic attacks on Palestinian civilians and medical facilities. - Read More -
8/10/2024 - The Hague – October 8, 2024 - The Hind Rajab Foundation, a branch of the March 30 Movement, has filed an unprecedented and historic complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC) against 1,000 Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) soldiers for war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide in Gaza, Palestine. These individuals, all of whom have been identified by name, are accused of participating in systematic attacks against civilians during the ongoing genocide in Gaza.
This complaint, supported by over 8,000 pieces of verifiable evidence—including videos, audio recordings, forensic reports, and social media documentation—demonstrates the soldiers' direct involvement in these atrocities. All of the named soldiers were located in Gaza during the genocidal assault, and the evidence reveals their participation in violations of international law. - Read More -
6/8/2024 - The March 30 Movement, represented by lawyer Haroon Raza, has officially filed a complaint with the Dutch judicial authorities against Dutch citizen and IDF soldier Liam V. A. The complaint accuses Liam V. A. of war crimes, crimes against humanity, and genocide in Gaza. - Read More -
3/7/2024 - The Hague, July 3, 2024 - This morning, the March 30 Movement, represented by attorney Haroon Raza, officially submitted a comprehensive complaint to the ICC against Benny Gantz (b. 1959), Ron Dermer (b. 1971), Gabi Eisenkot (b. 1960), and Aryeh Deri (b. 1959), all members of Israel's now dissolved War Cabinet. In addition to Netanyahu and Gallant, these individuals cannot be allowed to escape responsibility through resignation. - Read More -
16/6/2024 - The March 30 Movement, represented by Mr. Haroon Raza, has filed a formal complaint and is calling for the immediate arrest and prosecution of representatives of COGAT (Coordination of Government Activities in the Territories), a unit of the Israeli Ministry of Defense. This urgent action follows multiple documented instances where COGAT has been implicated in severe violations of international law, including the use of starvation as a weapon of war against the civilians of Gaza. Under the directive of Israeli officials such as Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu (b. 1949) and Defense Minister Yoav Gallant (b. 1958), COGAT's actions have resulted in widespread suffering and death among the Palestinian population. - Read More -
4/5/2024 - The Hague - Advocaten voor de Vrede and the March 30 Movement, have lodged a comprehensive complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC) targeting Israel's actions in Gaza. This submission, deemed the most robust and detailed to date, aims to hold Israeli authorities accountable for alleged crimes against humanity, war crimes, and genocide. - Read More -
19/4/2024 - A team of lawyers led by Gilles Devers has filed a complaint with the national anti-terrorist prosecutor's office for torture and war crimes in connection with the military attack on Gaza. This complaint "against X" is intended to determine the role played by Yoel Ohnona, the Franco-Israeli soldier whose testimony has been requested.
In a video that has gone viral, this soldier praised the violence and abuse inflicted on a Palestinian detainee, who can be seen, along with other detainees, in a distressed situation, shackled and blindfolded.
The outcry provoked by the broadcast of this video led the Quai d'Orsay to reaffirm the "competence of French justice to deal with crimes committed by French nationals abroad, including in the ongoing conflict in Gaza".
This video, and the many reports of torture of Palestinian detainees, have prompted widespread condemnation and demands from civil society that the perpetrators of flagrant human rights violations be held to account.
It is to satisfy this demand for justice and prevent further atrocities that this first complaint in France has been filed. - Read More -
30/3/2024 - THE HAGUE, MARCH 30 2024 – The March 30 Movement, represented by attorney Haroon Raza, filed a detailed complaint with the International Criminal Court (ICC) against Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, Dutch-Israeli illegal settler Akiva van Koningsveld, and other Israeli settlers. This action accuses them squarely of participating in or being complicit in land theft, colonization, acts of genocide, alongside their ongoing involvement in a broad spectrum of war crimes and crimes against humanity within the Occupied Palestinian Territories. - Read More -
22/3/2024 - Lawyers of the #March30Movement filed a complaint to the International Criminal Court (ICC) demanding to initiate an urgent investigation and issue an arrest warrant for Yoel Ohnona (The French-Israeli soldier speaking in the torture video). - Read More -
7/3/2024 - Next week, President Isaac Herzog (b. 1960) of Israel is expected to visit The Netherlands, a visit that comes under the heavy shadow of the ongoing Gaza genocide. Mr. Haroon Raza, representing the #March30Movement, has lodged a detailed complaint highlighting President Herzog’s pivotal role in fostering a climate conducive to genocide in Gaza. The accusations stem from President Herzog's direct and indirect contributions to systematic atrocities against the Palestinian population, effectively breaching international humanitarian and criminal laws. - Read More -
16/2/2024 - The Hague - The March 30 Movement via attorney Mr. Haroon Raza has lodged a new formal complaint against Dutch citizen and IDF soldier Leah Rachmani, accusing her of involvement in grave violations during military operations in Gaza.
This complaint, presented to Dutch authorities, meticulously outlines allegations of war crimes, crimes against humanity, and potential genocide, underscoring the critical need for accountability and adherence to international law.
Drawing upon detailed documentation and legal standards, the complaint seeks an investigation and subsequent prosecution, highlighting the alleged actions resulting in civilian casualties, destruction of civilian infrastructure, and violations of the Geneva Conventions. This legal action is a call to the international community and Dutch authorities to uphold the principles of human rights and equality under the law, including the consideration of passport revocation measures. - Read More -
13/2/2024 - Amsterdam - Our research team have detected the presence of IDF soldier Meir Ben Hamou within Amsterdam today. Ben Hamou is actively taking part in the onslaught on Gaza.
Our legal division, through attorney Haroon Raza, has formally requested his immediate detention. This request is based on allegations of Mr. Ben Hamou's involvement in actions constituting violations of international and Dutch law, specifically pertaining to the ongoing genocide in Gaza.
We call upon Dutch authorities to act with urgency in response to this matter, reinforcing the principles of justice and accountability. - Read More -
27/1/2024 - The March 30 Movement, represented by attorney Haroon Raza, has initiated a legal action against IDF members involved in the genocide in Gaza. These members, identified as Major Noy Leon, General-Major David Negesh, Major Amit Deri, and Reserve Captain Meir Rapoport, are currently in the Netherlands for an ICJ protest. They are scheduled to depart for Tel Aviv tomorrow, intending to return to Gaza. In the picture above, one of them, Captain Meir Rapoport is seen boasting on a Gazan destroyed house while writing the genocidal call " We will erase the memory of Amalek from under the heavens...". The March 30 Movement is urgently requesting the Dutch authorities to intervene, preventing their departure, and by doing that preventing the committing of more crimes and ensuring they are held responsible for their actions. - Read More -
30/12/2023 - The legal team of the #March30Movements has intensified its efforts to address serious allegations of international law and human rights violations. Following our initial complaint against Jonathan Ben Hamou, we have now extended our legal actions to include four other IDF soldiers of Dutch nationality. - Read More -
26/12/2023 - The March 30 Movement, represented by attorney Mr. Haroon Raza, has officially filed a complaint in the Netherlands, actively seeking accountability for the atrocities committed by the Israeli army in Gaza. This complaint targets Jonathan Ben Hamou, a Dutch-Israeli citizen who participated in the ongoing genocidal actions of the IDF in Gaza. - Read More -
Akrotiri and Dhekelia, officially the Sovereign Base Areas of Akrotiri and Dhekelia (SBA), is a British Overseas Territory on the island of Cyprus. The areas, which include British military bases and installations formerly part of the Crown colony of Cyprus, were retained by the British under the 1960 treaty of independence signed by the United Kingdom, Greece, Turkey and representatives from the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities. The territory serves an important role as a station for signals intelligence and provides a vital strategic part of the United Kingdom surveillance-gathering network in the Mediterranean and the Middle East.
History
The Sovereign Base Areas were created in 1960 by the London and Zürich Agreements, when Cyprus achieved independence from the British Empire, as recorded by the United Nations in 1960 as treaty 5476. The United Kingdom desired to retain sovereignty over these areas, as this guaranteed the use of UK military bases on Cyprus, including RAF Akrotiri, and a garrison of the British Army. The importance of the bases to the British is based on the strategic location of the island, at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean, close to the Suez Canal and the Middle East; the ability to use the RAF base as staging post for military aircraft; and for training.
Garrison officers' mess Dhekelia, 1969
In July and August 1961, there were a series of bomb attacks against the pipeline carrying fresh water to the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area. The pipeline was breached by explosions twelve times.
In the early 1970s the U.S. built an over-the-horizon radar named Cobra Shoe, which could observe aeroplane operations and missile tests in southern Russia. This was operated by the RAF on behalf of the USAF. This augmented an earlier British system built in the early 1960s named Project Sandra. The U.S. use of the base was hidden from the Cypriot government due to their sensitivities.
In 1974, following a military coup by the Cypriot National Guard, Turkey invaded the north of Cyprus, leading to the establishment of the internationally unrecognized Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. This did not affect the status of the bases. Greek Cypriots fleeing from the Turkish forces were permitted to travel through the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area and were given humanitarian aid, with those from Achna setting up a new village (Dasaki Achnas or Achna Forest) which is still in the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area. The Turkish advance halted when it reached the edge of the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area to avoid military conflict with the United Kingdom. In the Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area a tented refugee camp was set up at "Happy Valley" (part of the Episkopi Cantonment) to house Turkish Cypriots fleeing from Limassol and the villages surrounding the Area, until in 1975 they were flown out of RAF Akrotiri via Turkey to northern Cyprus. Some Greek Cypriot refugees remain housed on land in the parts of Trachoni and Kolossi villages that fall within the Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area.
In 1974, the British government decided that British forces would be entirely withdrawn from Cyprus, because the sprawling bases had become undefendable in the light of increasing troop demands in Northern Ireland, and because of pressure on the defence budget.[citation needed] The U.S. very strongly objected to any British withdrawal that would result in the United States losing access to GCHQ signals intelligence from Cyprus, since it had lost access to its many signals intelligence bases in Turkey due to its political dispute with Turkey following the invasion of Cyprus. The U.S. agreed to contribute to base costs, and the British cancelled the closure plan. U.S. use of the base increased, such as Lockheed U-2 spy flights on Syria, though flights were generally at night "to avoid local curiosity".
Politics
Current status
The territory is composed of two base areas. One is Akrotiri (Greek: Ακρωτήρι pronounced [akroˈtiri]; Turkish: Ağrotur Turkish pronunciation: [ˈaːɾotuɾ]), or the Western Sovereign Base Area (WSBA), which includes two main bases at RAF Akrotiri and Episkopi Cantonment, plus all of Akrotiri Village's district (including Limassol Salt Lake) and parts of eleven other village districts. The other area is Dhekelia Cantonment (Δεκέλεια Greek pronunciation: [ðeˈceʎa]; Dikelya), or the Eastern Sovereign Base Area (ESBA), which includes a base at Ayios Nikolaos plus parts of twelve village districts.
As of late 2023, based units include:
RAF Akrotiri and Episkopi Cantonment:
No. 903 Expeditionary Air Wing RAF
No. 84 Squadron RAF
1st Battalion, Duke of Lancaster's Regiment
Cyprus Operations Support Unit
Cyprus Military Working Dog Troop
Cyprus Joint Police Unit (CJPU)
Dhekelia Cantonment:
1st Battalion, The Rifles
Joint Service Signal Unit (Cyprus)
Ayios Nikolaos Station, in the ESBA, is an ELINT (electronic intelligence) listening station of the UKUSA Agreement intelligence network. The UKUSA signals intelligence system is sometimes known as "ECHELON".
Governance
The SBAs were retained in 1960 to keep military bases in areas under British sovereignty, along with the rights retained to use other sites in what became the territory of the Republic. That makes them different from the other remaining British Overseas Territories.
The basic philosophy of their administration was declared by the British government in Appendix O to the 1960 treaty with Cyprus, which provided that the British government intended:
Not to develop the Sovereign Base Areas for other than military purposes.
Not to set up and administer "colonies".
Not to create customs posts or other frontier barriers between the Sovereign Base Areas and the Republic.
Not to set up or permit the establishment of civilian commercial or industrial enterprises except insofar as these are connected with military requirements, and not otherwise to impair the economic, commercial or industrial unity and life of the Island.
Not to establish commercial or civilian seaports or airports.
Not to allow new settlement of people in the Sovereign Base Areas other than for temporary purposes.
Not to expropriate private property within the Sovereign Base Areas except for military purposes on payment of fair compensation.
Appendix O also provides that various ancient monuments in the SBAs (in particular the site and remains of Kourion, the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates near Kourion, the Stadium of Curium and the Church and remains of the Holy Monastery of St Nicholas of the Cats) should be administered by the Republic of Cyprus. The Cypriot government issues licences for antiquity excavation in the SBAs subject to British consent, and any movable antiquities found in excavations or otherwise discovered become Cypriot state property.
According to the British Ministry of Defence:
Because the SBAs are primarily required as military bases and not ordinary dependent territories, the Administration reports to the Ministry of Defence in London. It has no formal connection with the Foreign and Commonwealth Office or the British High Commission in Nicosia, although there are close informal links with both offices on policy matters.
The territory is administered by an Administrator, who is also the Commander of British Forces Cyprus, which as of September 2022 is Air Vice-marshal Peter J. M. Squires. The Administrator is officially appointed by the British monarch on the advice of the Ministry of Defence. The Administrator has all the executive and legislative authority of a governor of an overseas territory. A Chief Officer is appointed, and is responsible to the Administrator for the day-to-day running of the civil government, with subordinate Area Officers responsible for the civil administration of the two areas. No elections are held in the territory, although British citizens are normally entitled to vote in United Kingdom elections (as British Forces or overseas electors).
The areas have their own legal system, distinct from the United Kingdom and the Republic of Cyprus. This consists of the laws of the Colony of Cyprus as of August 1960, amended as necessary. The laws of Akrotiri and Dhekelia are closely aligned with, and in some cases identical to, the laws operating within the Republic of Cyprus. The Court of the Sovereign Base Areas is concerned with non-military offences committed by any person within Akrotiri and Dhekelia, and law and order is maintained by the Sovereign Base Areas Police, while offences involving British Forces Cyprus and military law are dealt with by the Cyprus Joint Police Unit. Fire and rescue services are provided by the Defence Fire and Risk Management Organisation through stations at Episkopi, Akrotiri, Dhekelia and Ayios Nikolayos. The Defence Medical Services provide emergency ambulance cover based from medical centres in the main bases. All emergency services are accessible from any telephone using the Europe-wide emergency number 112.
Reviews
In January 2010, a newspaper article appeared in the British press claiming that as a result of budgetary constraints arising from the Great Recession, the British Ministry of Defence drew up controversial plans to withdraw the United Kingdom's 3,000 strong garrison and end the use of Cyprus as a staging point for ground forces. The Labour government, under whom the proposal appeared, was replaced by the Cameron–Clegg coalition whose defence review did not mention the issue.
On 15 December 2012 in a written statement to the House of Commons, the UK's Secretary of State for Defence, Philip Hammond, revealed the findings of a report on the SBA military bases following the completion of a review of their operations by Lord Ashcroft:
The Sovereign Base areas are in a region of geo-political importance and high priority for the United Kingdom's long term national security interests ... Our military personnel, United Kingdom civilians and locally employed personnel in the Sovereign Base Areas make a major contribution to the national security of the United Kingdom and will continue to do so in the future.
Dispute and controversies
The Republic of Cyprus claims that the Sovereign Base Areas are a "remnant of colonialism". On 30 June 2005 the House of Representatives of Cyprus unanimously adopted a resolution on the legal status of the base areas originally proposed by Vassos Lyssarides. The resolution refers to "relevant UN decisions on the abolition of colonialism, as well as the fundamental principles of international law, which forbid the occupation of territory within the domain of any other country." It claims that "the United Kingdom does not have substantial sovereignty over the British bases, but it has as much sovereignty as is necessary for military reasons and not for administrative, financial and / or any other reasons." The resolution urged the UK government "to fulfil its financial obligations towards the Republic of Cyprus, which derive from the Treaty of Establishment." It also argued that the UK does not have territorial waters in the areas.
The UK government does not recognise Cypriot claims that the UK's sovereignty in the areas is limited.
In July 2001, protests were held at the bases by local Cypriots, unhappy with British plans to construct radio masts at the bases as part of an upgrade of British military communication posts around the world. Locals claimed the masts would endanger local lives and cause cancer, as well as have a negative effect on wildlife in the area. The British and Cypriot governments jointly commissioned health research from the University of Bristol and the Ministry of Health of the Republic of Cyprus, and that research project reported in 2005 that there was no evidence of health problems being caused by electromagnetic fields from the antennas. The Sovereign Base Areas Administration has carried out assessments and surveys into the effects on wildlife, which have fed into an "Akrotiri Peninsula Environmental Management Plan", published in September 2012.
In 2004, the UK offered to cede 117 square kilometres (45 sq mi) of farmland as part of the rejected Annan Plan for Cyprus.
On 29 August 2013, during the Syrian civil war, some Cypriot and British media sources speculated that long-range ballistic missiles, fired from Syria in retaliation for proposed British involvement in military intervention against the Syrian government of Bashar al-Assad, could hit Cyprus, and could potentially deliver chemical weapons. In some Cypriot media it was stated that the proposed interdiction of the Syrian civil war, utilising Akrotiri and Dhekelia, could recklessly endanger the Cypriot populations near to those bases. Two days earlier, on 27 August 2013, Cypriot foreign minister Ioannis Kasoulides had moved to calm Cypriot concerns, saying that the British bases were unlikely to play a major part in any intervention.
Travel documents
There is normally no passport check at the border from Akrotiri or Dhekelia to Cyprus. Possession of a passport, or an EU-compliant national identity card is generally needed in Cyprus. A passport is required to travel between Cyprus/SBAs and Northern Cyprus. Issues concerning the validity of car insurance and customs are specified by SBAs' administration.
Brexit implications
Under Article 2(1) of the Protocol, the SBAs are partially part of the European Union Customs Union in three domains: VAT, agriculture and fisheries. However, the SBAs are already outside the EU. Therefore, concerns have been raised about the future status of about 15,000 Cypriots (EU citizens) working in the SBA following the UK's 2020 departure from the EU. Cyprus, Republic of Ireland and Spain are the only three EU states that conducted bilateral talks with the UK on the Brexit issue. The talks between the UK and the Republic of Cyprus started in October 2017.
The Brexit withdrawal agreement has a protocol on the SBAs, with provisions essentially maintaining their previous status.
Geography
Akrotiri and Dhekelia cover 3% of the land area of Cyprus, a total of 254 km2 (98 sq mi) (split 123 km2 (47 sq mi) (48.5%) at Akrotiri and 131 km2 (51 sq mi) (51.5%) at Dhekelia). 60% of the land is privately owned as freeholds by Cypriot citizens; the other 40% is controlled by the Ministry of Defence as Crown leasehold land. In January 2014, an agreement between the Cypriot and UK governments was signed, ensuring that residents and property owners in the British Bases will enjoy equal rights for the development of property. In addition to Akrotiri and Dhekelia, the Treaty of Establishment also provided for the continued use by the British Ministry of Defence and the British Armed Forces of certain facilities within the Republic of Cyprus, known as Retained Sites.
Akrotiri is located in the south of the island, near the city of Limassol (or Lemesos). Dhekelia is in the southeast, near Larnaca. Both areas include military bases, as well as farmland and some residential land. Akrotiri is surrounded by territory controlled by the Republic of Cyprus, but Dhekelia also borders on the United Nations (UN) buffer zone and the area controlled by the Turkish forces.
Ayia Napa lies to the east of Dhekelia. The villages of Xylotympou and Ormideia, also in the Republic of Cyprus, are enclaves surrounded by Dhekelia. The Dhekelia Power Station, divided by a British road into two parts, also belongs to the Republic of Cyprus. The northern part is an enclave, like the two villages, whereas the southern part is located by the sea, and therefore not an enclave, though it has no territorial waters of its own.
Territorial waters of 3 nautical miles (5.6 km) are claimed, and the right according to the laws of the UN to extend the claim of up to 12 nautical miles (22.2 km) is reserved.
Cyprus is an important migration flyway for birds between Africa and Europe and millions of birds are killed yearly as they migrate over the island. To protect resident and migratory birds, BirdLife Cyprus and the RSPB survey areas of illegal trapping. More than 150 species of birds, over half of conservation concern, have been trapped in nets, or on limesticks, and it is estimated that organised crime gangs earn over 15 million Euros yearly. The dead birds are sold to provide the main ingredient for ambelopoulia — an illegal delicacy — in the Republic of Cyprus. The 2015 survey estimated a maximum 19 km (12 mi) of mist nets across both the Republic and the British Territories, and more than 5,300 limesticks removed, mainly in the Republic. It is estimated that over 2 million birds were killed in 2015 including over 800,00—0 on British Territories.[49][50] Employing measures such as covert camera surveillance (including a drone), exclusion zones and impounding vehicles, trapping activity at Dhekelia fell by 77.5%. In 2016 an estimated 800,000 birds were killed at Dhekelia and in the following year trapping activity fell by 77.5% and bird deaths to an estimated 180,000.
The Episkopi Cliffs Important Bird Area lies mostly within the western base area, and covers much of the peninsula. It was identified as an IBA in 1989, and became recognised under the Ramsar Convention in 2003. 60% was designated as a Special Protection Area in 2010. Over 300 bird species have been recorded in this area. The wetlands, including the large salt lake, are an important habitat and bird hotspot. These wetlands are an important breeding spot for the ferruginous duck, which has nested there since 2005. Other species that nest in the wetlands include the black-winged stilt, the Kentish plover, the spur-winged lapwing, and the stone-curlew. Black francolins, Cyprus wheatears, Cyprus warblers, Eleonora's falcons, peregrine falcons, griffon vultures, European shags, European rollers, blue rock thrushs, and wallcreepers breed elsewhere in the area, especially around the cliffs.
The beaches in the British Sovereign Base Areas (SBAs) are important nesting sites for the endangered green Chelonia mydas and loggerhead Caretta caretta turtles. The SBA Environment Department, assisted by a large volunteer effort, has monitored turtle nesting success on SBA beaches since 1990. Disturbance to nesting turtles is an issue in some areas due to activities such as camping, driving on beaches and illegal fishing. Sea turtles in Cyprus are protected as priority species under the Protection and Management of Nature and Wildlife Ordinance (implementing the provisions of the Habitats Directive), enacted in 2007.
In December 2015, five Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) were designated in the Cyprus Sovereign Base Areas. The five SACs designated are Akrotiri, Episkopi, Cape Pyla, Dhekelia and Agios Nikolaos. The designations were made under the Protection and Management of Nature and Wildlife Ordinance and will support the existing network (NATURA 2000) of SACs in Cyprus and across Europe.
Demographics
When the areas were being established, the boundaries were deliberately drawn to avoid centres of population. Approximately 18,195 people live in the areas. About 11,000 native Cypriots work in the areas themselves, or on farmland within the boundaries of the areas. The British military and their families make up the rest of the population.
Persons related to the territory may in theory be eligible to claim the British Overseas Territories citizenship (BOTC status) through a personal connection to the areas (i.e., birth on the territory before 1983, or born after 1983 to a parent who was born on the territory before 1983). But unlike most other British Overseas Territories, there is no provision in the 2002 amendment of the British Nationality Act 1981 by which British citizenship (with the right of abode in the United Kingdom) can either be claimed through automatic entitlement or be applied for by means of registration, from or through a sole personal connection to the Base Areas (in comparison, the 2002 Act bestowed British citizenship on all other BOTCs). Hence, non-British and non-military personnel with the connection to the territory cannot live and work in the UK and must use their Cypriot passports to apply for visas to the UK.
Under the terms of the 1960 agreement with Cyprus establishing the Sovereign Base Areas, the United Kingdom is committed not to use the areas for civilian purposes. This was stated in 2002 as the primary reason for the exclusion of the areas from the scope of the British Overseas Territories Act 2002.[citation needed] As of 2010, around 7,195 service personnel of British Forces Cyprus are based at Akrotiri and Dhekelia.
Education
Service Children's Education oversees education for children of personnel and MoD employees. The Eastern Sovereign Base Area is served by Dhekelia Primary School and Ayios Nikolaos Primary School, which are feeders for King Richard School. The Western Sovereign Base Area is served by Episkopi Primary School and Akrotiri Primary School, which are feeders for St. John's School.
Economy
No economic statistics are gathered for Akrotiri and Dhekelia. The main economic activities are the provision of services to the military, as well as limited agriculture. When the territory under the effective control of the Republic of Cyprus switched currencies from the Cypriot pound to the euro on 1 January 2008, Akrotiri and Dhekelia followed suit making the Sovereign Base Areas the only territory under British sovereignty to officially use the euro.
Transport
Cypriot motorways pass through both areas. There is no public airport within the areas, but the RAF Akrotiri airbase is located there, which has a runway suitable for long-distance flights, but is not used for public flights.
Communications
The Base Areas form part of the Republic of Cyprus telephone numbering plan, using the international prefix +357. Landline numbers are in the same eight-digit format, with the last four digits being the line number. Numbers in Dhekelia begin with the digits 2474, while those in Akrotiri begin with the digits 2527.
Postal services are provided by the British Forces Post Office, with mail to Akrotiri being addressed to BFPO 57 and mail to Dhekelia and Ayios Nikolaos being addressed to BFPO 58.[60] Cyprus Postal Services provides postal service for civilian homes and businesses within the Base Areas, then using Cypriot postal codes and "Cyprus" as country on letters from abroad.
The bases are issued different amateur radio call signs from the Republic of Cyprus. Amateur radio stations on the bases use the International Telecommunication Union prefix of "ZC4", which is assigned to Great Britain. There are about 52 amateurs licensed in this manner. Amateur radio direction finding identified RAF Akrotiri as the location of the powerful but now defunct shortwave numbers station "Lincolnshire Poacher". Several curtain antennas there have been identified as being used for these transmissions.
Culture
BBC World Service transmitter masts in Akrotiri
Media
BFBS Radio 1 and 2 are broadcast on FM and can be widely received across Cyprus. BFBS Television is now only available to viewers via satellite, having been confined to the SBAs or encrypted in 1997 for copyright reasons, before BFBS switched off its analogue transmitters in 2009. The British East Mediterranean Relay Station was situated locally.
This was taken somewhere near the Theodosian walls.
Istanbul contends for the title of the most historic city on earth, and so I took my tourism as seriously there as I have anywhere, and over a good, full 2 weeks. (I'll write about the city's history w/o doing it any justice in a comment to another photo.) Architecturally and atmospherically, it's a mélange of the old, the very old and the relatively new in varying states of preservation. Some of the first photos I took there were of clearly ancient 2-level stone houses lining streets near the bazaar with the remains of ancient stone bird-houses high on their walls.
- A list of the sites and sights that I took in over my 2 weeks in town include the following, at least.:
- The Hagia Sophia, a full day tour with a guidebook in hand (see the last photo), was the first order of business my first full day in town.
- I toured the monumental Blue Mosque aka the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (1609-1616), the most famous of Turkish mosques (after the Aya Sophia) more than once, and took in a sound and light show projected onto the mosque complex one evening. (It was cheesy, narrated by a man with a deep voice, but recent videos online are of a show that's now much better and nothing like what I saw.) "Before construction began under architect Mehmet Aga, there were objections that the construction of a mosque with 6 minarets would be an unholy attempt to rival the 6 minarets of the mosque at Mecca. More importantly, it would drain state resources in a parlous state following recent wars with Austria and Persia. But Ahmet I was determined to outdo his predecessors, whether or not the mosque bankrupted his empire. He helped to dig the foundations himself." (RG) Up until the 20th cent., this mosque was the departure point for local pilgrims undertaking the hajj. It isn't blue, but blue and green are the dominant colours in the > 20,000 fine decorative Iznik tiles inside it. www.flickr.com/photos/ian-w-scott/4637072118 Its courtyard (avlu) is busy with ritual ablutions at taps along the north exterior wall, and the mosque is often crowded. The interior is 51 x 53 m.s, it has 260 windows, many with stained glass, and its dome is 23 m.s high.
- I toured Ahmet I's turbe or tomb in which he, his wife the influential Kosem Sultan, and 3 of his sons are interred: Osman II (r. 1618-'22, see below re Yedikule), Murat IV (r 1623-'40), and Prince Beyazit. Ahmet was only 27 when he died. ("Kosem Sultan ruled the Harem and, historians suggest, the Empire through her husband, 2 sons and grandson, Mehmet IV, for nearly 5 decades. The daughter of a Greek priest, she entered the harem at the young age of 13 and won the heart of Sultan Ahmet with her beauty. www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjKrMnUTPhM Rival factions in the Harem, jealous of her influence, had her strangled with a curtain cord in 1651." [I. G.])
- The only components of the mosque's kulliye still standing are the primary school and the medrese (which I don't recall), the latter used today to store some of the documents of the Ottoman archives.
- The vast Suleymaniye mosque complex (1550-'57), designed by the great Mimar Sinan, and my favourite Ottoman mosque. (I returned to see it again in 2012.: www.flickr.com/photos/97924400@N00/8495464167/in/photolis... ) "The overwhelming impression is of light and uncluttered space, with a central dome 53 m.s high, twice its diameter, above a perfect square of 26.5 m.s2. The sense of space is further achieved with the addition of supporting semi-domes to the NW and SE, while the monumental arched spaces to the SW and NE are filled with great tympana walls, pierced by windows through which the light pours." (RG) www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2rePZHydl8
- I toured Suleyman's mausoleum as well, on the grounds of the mosque, where he's buried with his legendary wife the Ruthenian Hürrem Sultan aka Roxelana. I saw the tomb of the architect Mimar Sinan nearby, the most celebrated artist in Turkish history, in a small triangular garden on the grounds, the location of his house during construction of the mosque. Sinan had been a janissary and was born a Christian in the town of Ağırnas near Kayseri in Anatolia. It's likely he was of Armenian or Cappadochian Greek heritage as "Selim II gave a decree on Dec. 30, 1573 granting his request to forgive and spare his relatives from the general exile of Kayseri's Armenian communities to the island of Cyprus." (Wikipedia. I wouldn't be surprised in the least if he was Armenian.) The Suleymaniye, which he described as his 'Journeyman's work', is considered to have been his 2nd greatest achievement after the Selimiye in Edirne. "A contemporary of Michelangelo, Sinan served as the empire's chief architect from 1538 to '88. According to art historian Aptullah Kuran, he built 477 mosques, medreses, hamams and bridges, of which 319 are in Istanbul." (I.G.)
- Tens of other similar Ottoman mosques in town, incl. several which had once been churches. I was never discouraged from entering (after removing my shoes), and could lie down, stare up at lovely, intricate domes and have a nap if so disposed in these restful, numinous spaces. They must have much to do with the strong appeal of Islam to the locals. Many of the Turks I met seemed to be more enthusiastically Muslim than the Persians I would meet later in Iran. (While Persian mosques were generally more ancient and more often represented greater artistic and engineering achievements, notably so in Esfahan [!] and Yazd, they were less consistently carpeted or enclosed [i.e. less comfortable. Many consist in eivans that open onto courtyards.] The majority of Ottoman mosques in Istanbul are derivative of the Hagia Sophia, and there's nothing wrong with that.) And often I'd find a clowder of cats and kittens near the entrance to a Turkish mosque lovingly tended to by an old man. (I just found this. The Turks' love of cats seems to be official.: www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMyJZlX5CP0 )
- I can't make a complete list, but at a minimum I also toured:
- the Yeni Cami aka the New Mosque (but not new, 1597-1663), erected for the Valide Sultan, Safiye, mother to Mehmet III;
- the Nuruosmaniye Mosque (I think?), "the first imperial mosque in Istanbul to integrate both baroque and neoclassical elements in its construction", begun in 1748 by Mahmut I and completed in 1755 by Osman III. It reminds me a bit of Dresden's Frauenkirche; see it to stunning effect from the 2:30 min. pt. in this James Bond film clip.: www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMoR7bgpfU4 ('Product placement'. Tourism is important to the Turkish economy, and James Bond has been helpful. 'To Russia with Love' in particular has been very promotional.) The 'Nuruosmaniye complex' is on Turkey's lengthy tentative list for Unesco designation (although it's already within the 'Historic Areas of Istanbul' site.);
- the Kalenderhane Camii, formerly a Byzantine church most likely dedicated to the Theotokos Kyriotissa and rebuilt from 1197-1204, then "assigned personally by Mehmed II to the Kalenderi sect of the Dervish." (I'll scan a photo);
- the impressive Şehzade Camii (1543-'48, arch. Mimar Sinan) "commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent as a memorial to his [favourite] son Şehzade Mehmed who died in 1543 while returning to Istanbul after a victorious military campaign in Hungary" (I'll scan a photo of the interior of the dome.);
- the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Camii, Kadirga (one of 3 in town named for Sokollu Mehmed), another designed by Sinan (1571-'12), with a high dome and the best in Iznik tiles;
- the lovely, iconic Ortaköy aka Büyük Mecidiye mosque on the shores of the Bosphorus in Ortaköy. Commissioned by Abdülmecid I, it was constructed in mixed or eclectic style, is "particularly ornate [in its] stone-carved decoration", and was completed @ 1854 or '56. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ortak%C3%B6y_Mosque#/media/File:Ist...
- the lovely Mihrimah Sultan Camii, (1543-44, and 1548) a work by Mimar Sinan in the historic centre of Üsküdar on the Asian side of the Bosphorus (I'll scan a photo).;
- I think I toured the baroque Ayazma Camii (1757-'61, built by Sultan Mustafa III, architect Mehmet Tahir), also in Üsküdar, as I took a photo of its exterior and one of its elaborate stone birdhouses, while standing beneath it.;
- the Selimiye mosque across from the famous Selimiye barracks on the Asian side of the Bosphorus (1801-'05, rebuilt 1825-'28, see my photo of the interior of the dome);
- I might have toured the Pertevniyal Valide Sultan aka the Aksaray Valide Mosque (1872) with its impressive dome, unless the photo of it online reminds me of another ... and more as I came across them.
- From the 13th or 14th to the 18th cent.s the trade in Slavic slaves, captured by 'Tatar' slavers in a process referred to for some time as 'the harvesting of the steppe', was enormous, in the 100s of 1000s of captives or in the millions. "Ottomon history experts Gábor Ágoston and Bruce Alan Masters have noted that the rapid rise of Istanbul - becoming the largest city in Europe by the 16th century - probably would not have been possible without such a rich reservoir of Slav slaves." www.terrain.org/articles/28/playground/3.htm That's a topic I didn't read about once in Turkey. (I write a bit about the trade in Slavic slaves here.: www.flickr.com/photos/97924400@N00/4288015821/in/photolis... www.flickr.com/photos/97924400@N00/4287870493/in/datepost... ) It's something to think that the Blue mosque, Suleymaniye, Selimiye and so many other Ottoman masterpieces were built in large part with the labour of slaves from what is today southern Ukraine, southern Russia, Poland (as it was) and Romania. (But the narrator in this next video claims that "as a rule" slaves were set free after 9 years and would often find the means to buy their freedom. www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zq7nJW0drU )
- The small but memorable Rüstem Pasha Mosque (@ 1561-'63), also designed by Sinan, entered by climbing a flight of stairs to an enclosed courtyard on a terrace where the double portico in the mosque's porch is richly coated in the finest period Iznik tiles, as is the interior: the walls. piers, pillars, mihrab and the minbar too, @ 2,300 tiles in total (incl. famous panels of tulips and carnations). It's a jewel-box of a place and surprisingly peaceful for its central location. ("Built for Suleyman the Magnificent's grand vizier, Rüstem Pasha [who was responsible together with Roxelana for the murder of the heir apparent Mustafa], the mosque was probably built in his memory by his widow Mihrimah, Roxelana's daughter." [RG]) www.youtube.com/watch?v=resM1N9RKjQ
- I toured Topkapi palace twice in 2 full day tours, a collection of bldg.s ranged @ 4 large courtyards. I didn't know what to expect but noted the relatively human scale of the place, as opulent and richly decorated as it all is. There were some large rooms of course, such as 'the Imperial Hall' in the Harem, but I'd toured the much grander and more intimidating Neues Palais in Potsdam, Peles castle in Sinaia, and the Forbidden City in Beijing. Yet Topkapi would serve as the administrative and political heart of one of the greatest empires in world history, and as the luxurious home to a long succession of Ottoman sultans www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzp3A3-eukM , their wives and harems, crown princes, courtiers, et al. for 400 years until 1853, when the sultan decamped to the European-style Dolmabahce Palace across the Golden Horn. Initially completed by the conqueror in 1465, each sultan made a personal contribution, be it a library, courtroom, or garden pavilion. Any understated or modest aspects impressed me as a reflection of a certain confidence, whereas Dolmabahce in 1853 and following was all about keeping up with the European Joneses. Awesome scale was reserved by the Ottoman for their mosques.
- "In accordance with Islamic tradition, the palace consists of a collection of bldg.s arranged @ a series of courtyards. ... The 1st court was the service area of the palace and open to all, while most of the 2nd court and its attendant bldg.s were devoted to the Divan, or Council of State, and to those who had business with it. The pavilions of judges were located at the Ortakapi (the entrance to the palace proper, /b/ the 1st and 2nd courts), in accordance with the tradition that justice should be dispensed at the gate of the palace. The 3rd court was primarily given over to the palace school, an important imperial institution devoted to the training of civil servants, and it was only in the 4th court that the serious business of state gave way to pleasure. Pavilions were erected @ the attractive gardens here by successive sultans in celebration of their victories. Glorious views and sunsets could be enjoyed in privileged retreat from the 4,000-member retinue. Various adjustments made to the structure and function of the bldg.s indicated power shifts over the centuries. During the 'Sultanate of Women' in the 16th cent., for example, a passage was opened /b/ the Harem and the Divan. In the 18th cent., after the power of the sultan had declined, offices of state were transferred away from the 'Eye of the sultan' (a window in the divan, see below) to the gate leading to the palaces of the Grand Vizier known as the Sublime Porte." (RG)
- Every tourist enters the 1st courtyard, the outer precinct of the palace, through the Imperial Gate, and then the palace and vast 2nd courtyard (likely completed in @ 1465, remodeled in @ 1525-'29) through the 'Gate of Salutations' aka the Ortakapi or 'Middle Gate' with its twin, octagonal towers. I then toured the following bldg.s, most revetted with the finest Iznik tiles and many of which are under lovely domes, have bronze fireplaces, stained-glass windows, and were renovated in baroque rococo.:
- The Imperial Council (Divan) bldg. off the 2nd courtyard, the famous 'Sublime Porte', a synecdoche for the central government of the empire. The Divan, consisting of the Grand Vizier and other council ministers, held their meetings in the chamber inside, which the Sultan or Valide Sultan could observe from a room in the adjacent 'Tower of Justice' (built under Mehmed II, enlarged in 1527-'29) through a raised window behind a golden grill known as 'the Eye of the Sultan'. (The Council was named after a divan, a low couch covered with carpets lining 3 sides of the room and on which the members would sit in order of rank, with the Grand Vizier in the centre opposite the entrance.)
- The 'Audience chamber' or 'Throne room' in the 3rd court, the official reception room of the empire, faces the entrance, the 'Gate of Felicity'. Here "the sultan would await the outcome of sessions of the Divan to give his assent to its proposals" or not. (RG) "[It] occupies a small bldg. [see?] with a widely overhanging roof supported on a colonnade of antique marble columns. The foundations date from the 15th cent., most of the superstructure from the reign of Selim I (1512-'20)" (I.G.), and has been much restored since.
- A library built "in the Tulip period" (1719) by Ahmet III.: The collection of 13,405 books and > 500 manuscripts with miniatures that had been kept there is claimed to be "the most precious in the Islamic world."
- The Circumcision Chamber (1641), built for Sultan Ibrahim 'the Mad'. I didn't know it's function, but was most impressed with its walls entirely covered in the finest, cool blue Iznik tiles (both interior and exterior), all of which predate the bldg. (I'll scan a photo).
- The cruciform Rivan kiosk (1636) built by Murat IV to commemorate his capture of Rivan (Yerevan today), and the beautiful Bagdad kiosk (1638) in the 4th court, built to commemorate his capture of that city, with 4 eivans.
- Jealously protected from prying eyes by eunuch guards, the Imperial Harem (which means 'forbidden' in Arabic) accommodated the Sultan's mother (the Valide Sultan), his wives www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2mE1y9YnY4 and concubines, the rest of his family incl. children, and servants and eunuchs. (Per Islam, a man can have as many as 4 wives as long as he can afford to care for them, but the Sultan could have 7 and umpteen concubines, all war captives or purchased slaves.) It consists in a labyrinth of > 400 rooms, incl. sleeping quarters, hamams (14), sitting rooms, prayer rooms, antechambers, etc. /b/ corridors and courtyards, and which are generally lovely and intimate with walls revetted with tiles, fireplaces, grilled windows and skylights. "The first permanent structures in the Harem were built under Murat III (1574-'95)." I toured at least most of the following.:
- 'The Apt. of the Valide Sultan [Queen Mother]' (late 16th cent.), at the centre of the Harem, has 18th-cent. frescoes with landscapes high on its walls (reflecting Western influence) under a baroque dome with frescoes of climbing vines with bunches of grapes. (I'll scan a photo.) "The Valide Sultan reigned over the Harem and frequently dominated her son, the Sultan, and through him the Empire." (B.G)
- The ornate 'Imperial Hall', "the largest and grandest room in the palace" (B.G.) (although not so large) in which official ceremonies and receptions were held, and which served as a gathering place for the members of the dynasty. (See it from the 2 sec. pt. and from the 5 to 6 sec. pt. in the ad in the next link.)
- The Sultan's personal hamam, designed by Sinan all in marble and which includes a golden grille installed for his security.
- The 'Salon of Murad III' (1578), "the most splendid room in the palace" and likely designed by Sinan (B.G.), famous for its fine tiles, 3-tiered cascade fountain and ornate dome. (See it at the 1 second pt. [its dome] and from the 7 to 9 sec. pt. in the ad in the next link.)
- The 'Twin kiosk', 2 private chambers built by 2 sultans, almost completely covered in rich tiles. It served as the private chamber of the crown prince from the 18th cent. "The [adjacent] colonnaded corridor was known, for some unknown reason, as the 'Consultation-Place of the Jinns'." (B.G.)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGvQWzNF4w0
- "The number of odalisques (female slaves [incl. concubines]) employed in the harem increased steadily with the decline of the Ottoman empire. In the reign of Abdulaziz (1861-'76) there were 809 in Topkapi. Many were imported from Caucasia (Circassia, Georgia and Armenia) for their looks youtu.be/h9F86uzNfmg , or were prisoners of war, captured in Hungary, Poland or Venice. Upon entering the harem, they would become charges of the haznedar usta who would teach them how to behave towards the sultan and the other palace inhabitants. The conditions in which the majority of these women lived were dangerously unhygienic and many died from vermin-carried and water-borne diseases, or from the cold of an Istanbul winter [!]. The women chosen to enter the bedchamber of the sultan, however, were promoted to the rank of imperial odalisque, given slaves to serve them, and pleasant accommodation. If they bore him a child, they would be promoted to the rank of favourite or wife, with their own apartments. [One of these children would succeed his father as sultan and murder many or most or all of his siblings and half-siblings. At least the Ottoman sultans weren't inbred, which any student of history knows is important. {Hello Old, Middle and New Kingdom pharoahs, Achaemenids, Seleucids, Ptolemies (!), Habsburgs, Stuarts, et al. www.nature.com/articles/hdy201325 "[Those] monarchs who were most inbred were the worst leaders, study suggests.": www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-9401315/How-royal-inbr... } I'd much prefer a little looksism in the breeding of sultans by the most lovely and charming women to be found across the empire and beyond to any consanguineous union, even amongst 2nd or 3rd cousins, although of course the Ottoman practice raises its own issues re slave-raiding, slavery, etc.] If the sultan subsequently lost affection for one of these women, he would give her in marriage to one of his courtiers." (RG)
- Items in the several, distinct museums or exhibitions in the Topkapi complex (none of which I recall specifically apart from some of the religious items listed below) include obligatory gem-encrusted objects such as Mahmut I's 'Topkapi dagger' ("a gift from Mahmut I to Nadir Shah which was waylaid and returned when news of the Shah's death reached Topkapi" [RG]) with its 3 huge emeralds (one concealing a watch), made famous by that Peter Ustinov movie www.youtube.com/watch?v=Giv4-gNKePg , 'the Spoonmaker's diamond' (the 5th-largest in the world, which adorned Mehmet IV's turban at his coronation), aigrettes and pendants, collections of thrones and of clocks, portraits of the sultans, miniature paintings, arms and armour, fine porcelain (the collection displayed in the former kitchens is said to be one of the finest anywhere), etc., etc. But the most valued treasures are religious relics known as 'the Sacred Trust' (displayed in the former 'Inner Palace School'), incl. John the Baptist's skull cap (or a piece of it), Abraham's pot, Joseph's turban, Moses' staff, David's sword, and scrolls belonging to John the Baptist (none of which I recall - ?). Mohamed's cloak or mantle (which I do recall) and his banner or standard (carried at a series of battles in the 1590s, incl. at Eger in 1595) are kept in a special room in golden chests under a silver canopy. One can see his footprint, a piece of his tooth, some hair from his beard, his seal, a letter he signed, his swords, his bow, the keys to the Kaaba, the gutters of the Kaaba, the casing of the Black stone, 'the Door of Repentance', etc. "These [Islamic] relics, of which the mantle is the most sacred, were brought from Egypt by Selim I after his conquest of that country in 1517, when he assumed the title of caliph." (B.G.)
- www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI0gcgXm42M
- Hagia Eirene church in the vast first courtyard or outer precinct of Topkapi palace: Hagia Eirene = 'Holy Peace'. This is a very large, very intact Byzantine church, impressively so as it's the oldest intact church, or mosque converted from a church, in Istanbul, after the Aya Sofia. It's also the only Byzantine church that wasn't converted to a mosque, as it was used as a storehouse and imperial arsenal by the Turks until the 19th cent. when it became the 1st museum in the Ottoman empire. The 1st church commissioned by Constantine I in Constantinople, it was completed in its original form in 337 AD. It then burned in the Nika revolt in 532, was rebuilt by Justinian in 548, was damaged in an earthquake in 749, and was restored and decorated in the mid 8th cent. by Constantine V. "Around the semicircular apse is the only synthronon (seating space for clergy in the apse of a church) in Istanbul to have survived the Byzantine era." (RG) As vast as it is, it has remarkably little in the way of decoration, apart most notably from a large cross outlined in black on a gold ground on the semidome above the apse, thought to be a rare example of iconoclastic art dating from the time of the controversy as to icons and iconoclasm at the councils of Nicaea. Constantine V was an iconoclast. archives.saltresearch.org/handle/123456789/206188
- The Chora church (see my photo in this stream of the interior of the dome with Christ and various saints.)
- The famous 'Yerebatan Sarnici', aka the 'Sunken Palace' or 'Basilica Cistern'. www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVtwNzF1BP8 (Toured once again 12 yr.s later..: www.flickr.com/photos/97924400@N00/8249264468/in/datepost... www.flickr.com/photos/97924400@N00/52371862704/in/datepos... ) It was most likely built by Constantine in the 4th cent. and enlarged by Justinian in the 6th. "Supplied by aqueducts with water from the Belgrade Forest, it in turn supplied the Great Palace and later Topkapi. ... At 140 x 70 m.s and with a capacity of 80 m.s3, it's the largest covered cistern in town. Small brick domes in the ceiling are supported by 336 columns, many with Corinthian capitals." (RG)
- I explored 2 other abandoned, ruined cisterns, one near my youth hostel and one not far from the aqueduct.
- The open, roofless ruins of a cathedral which had been at the centre of the Byzantine Monastery of Stoudios, aka 'the Monastery of St. John the Forerunner at Stoudios' (462 AD), the only remaining part of the complex and the oldest remaining church in Istanbul (although not intact). I wish I'd known the following when I was there.: "Victorious emperors proceeding through the Golden Gate would stop [at 'the Stoudion'], which was by far the most important and powerful religious house of its day in Constantinople" (L. Brownworth), ranking first among the 80 monasteries in the city. The monastery's residents were referred to as Stoudites or Studites (or maybe as Studs for short). "The laws and customs of the Stoudion were taken as models by the monks of Athos and of many other monasteries of the Orthodox world; even today they have influence." (Wikipedia) For example, the monastery led the opposition to Byzantine iconoclasm in the 8th and 9th cent.s.
- "The monks lived according to the strict rules of St. Basil: even melancholy was considered a sin and the monks were required to keep before them the spectre of death by repeating the words "We shall die!" over and over. They still found time, however, to transcribe books for mass circulation, and monks came to the monastery from Russia to learn the trade and prepare books for distribution at home." (RG)
- The monastery was "dedicated to St. John the Baptist (the Prodromos), and was founded by [Flavius Studius, the Eastern Roman consul and a wealthy statesman]. It's been suggested that it was originally built to house the head of John the Baptist, which was discovered n 453 (although it ended up in the Monastery of Akoimetoi) [?]. The surviving structure ... was a large 5th-cent. triple-aisled basilica, preceded by a porticoed atrium and a narthex. The nave was flanked by green marble columns with acanthus capitals, ... [and has] opus sectile pavement with figures of animals and mythological scenes, probably dating to the 11th cent. No contemporary monastery came near to matching it in size. ... By the early 9th cent. it became a center of intellectual activity, where hymnography and a scriptorium flourished, thus contributing to a Byzantine renaissance [at that time]." Its greatest claim to fame, however, came in 1042, when "the tyrant Michael V took refuge there from a popular revolution. He made his way to the church by ship, but was discovered, dragged from the altar and blinded." (RG) www.thebyzantinelegacy.com/stoudios
- It was porous and fully open to exploration when I was there, with standing walls, incl. the semi-circular bay with windows at the head of the apse, and partially preserved opus sectile floor mosaics. I've read that it's currently sealed off now and inaccessible for 'security'.
- The awesome, rambling, semi-finite remains of the Theodosian walls and towers, with Roma encampments /b/ the walls. I spent a couple of days touring there and touring sites in the area. (See the description for the photo of the walls with 3 semi-intact towers.)
- The Theodosian walls lead north to the ruins of the 3-story 'Palace of the Porphyrogenitus' (literally 'born to the purple') aka Tekfur Saray, which sits astride the inner and outer walls. What I toured was a remarkably well-preserved, elaborate, brick and stone outer shell decorated in geometric designs in red brick and white marble, fully accessible and climbable. (I'll scan a photo or 2). Videos online reveal that it now has a roof, glass panes in its windows with curtains behind them, and houses a museum. "A late 13th-cent. palace, it was an annex of the greater palace complex of Blachernae and is the best preserved of the 3 Byzantine palaces [?] to survive in the city ..., one of the few relatively intact examples of late Byzantine secular architecture in the world. It was named after Constantine Palaiologos, son of the Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos, "Porphyrogenitus". Several usurpers and emperors in waiting have lived there.: "Andronicus III until his grandfather fully abdicated; John VI Kantakouzenos while negotiating his regency of John V Palaiologos with Empress Anna of Savoy; and John V Palaiologos while completing his removal of John VI Kantakouzenos from power. ... The ground floor features a 4-arched arcade which opens into a courtyard overlooked by 5 large windows on the 1st floor. The top floor projects above the [Theodosian] walls and has windows on all sides. On the eastern side is a balcony." (Wikipedia) I felt lucky to have the whole, semi-intact, atmospheric ruin to myself.
- www.thebyzantinelegacy.com/porphyrogenitus
- The sprawling, hybrid Byzantine/Ottoman Yedikule Castle ('Castle of the 7 towers') which adjoins the walls at their southern end. It incorporates the triumphal, Byzantine triple 'Golden Gate' ('Porto Aurea') with its 2 square towers all covered in white marble, > 65 m.s wide and @ 20 high, built by Theodosius I & II, and named after huge, gilded doors long since gone. The last known 'triumphal entry' through the Golden Gate took place soon after the Byzantines retook Constantinople from 'the Latins' in 1261. www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCcgobBKbPU (I'll scan a photo). "4 of Yedikule's towers once formed part of the Theodosian walls, while 3 [round and keep-like] were added by 'Mehmet the Conqueror' in 1458-'59 and were linked together and to the Theodosian walls by curtain walls. Yedikule had been intended to serve in part as a treasury with some towers used as secure storehouses and as offices for the collection of revenue by the Vakif or 'pious foundation', but became a notorious prison when Murad III created a treasury at Topkapi in the late 16th cent. I recall one prison tower, darkly atmospheric with an inner winding staircase and with curving metal walkways suspended at raised points along the round interior wall leading to certain rooms or cells. (See from the 10:20 min. pt. in this.: www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObCwiOmb95o ) This might've been the Yazili Kule, the 'Tower of Inscriptions', with graffiti carved on its walls by inmates (although there's graffiti in other towers and at other points in the complex.) The ancient twin tower just to the south of the 'Golden Gate' contains an execution chamber, a wooden gallows, and a 'well of blood' into which decapitated heads were thrown. I didn't tour it or don't recall it, but you can see it here at the 2:30 min. pt. www.youtube.com/watch?v=oe80zQ5Dotg "Ambassadors of states currently at war with the Ottoman Porte were typically imprisoned [in Yedikule], as well as victims of palace intrigue and infighting, and political opponents of the imperial court. Among Yedikule's most notable prisoners were the young Sultan Osman II, imprisoned and garroted there in 1622 by the Janissary corps [which he'd tried to reform] www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WaUxh_ZR_o ; the last Emperor of Trebizond David Megas Komnenos; Constantin Brancoveanu of Wallachia [I toured his monastery at Horezu 2 mos. earlier]; King Simon I of Kartli (in Georgia); and a number of leading Ottoman pashas." (Wikipedia)
- hum54-15.omeka.fas.harvard.edu/exhibits/show/yedikulefort...
- The entirely metallic and unique Bulgarian Orthodox Church 'St. Stephen of the Bulgars', but which was closed when I came upon it. Pre-fabricated in cast iron in Vienna in 1898, it was shipped in pieces down the Danube and across the Black sea to be assembled on-site.
- Many Ottoman tombs in sultans' mausoleums near Hagia Sophia and elsewhere. I would've toured at least several of those of sultans Selim II, Murad III, Mehmed III, Mustafa I and Ibrahim I, and those of 'the princes'.
- The tomb complex of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (the flag-bearer of the army of Islam in Muhammad's attack on Constantinople in 669 AD), aka Eyüp Sultan, the most revered Muslim shrine in the city. (See the photo of the stretching kitten by some tombstones.)
- 'The Great Palace Mosaic Museum' with the best in Byzantine floor mosaics, excavated at the site of a peristyle court in the Royal Palace of Constantinople. "The Caesars of Byzantium ruled [a good chunk of] the world, and for more than 8 centuries this was their home. This bldg. at one time covered more than 4 acres, and boasted the legendary throne-room of Theophilus, with mechanical golden lions that would roar at the touch of a lever, and a throne which would [somehow] levitate. This museum displays only a small fraction of its mosaic floor, while most of it lies buried beneath the blue mosque and has never been excavated." www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SKOgEj-4Z4 (This last link is to a great little video re 'the top 5 unexcavated local Byzantine sites' from a researcher and Byzantine-history-enthusiast, with info. I wouldn't easily find elsewhere online.) It sure has some great floor mosaics. www.flickr.com/photos/charlesfred/52257562513/in/faves-97... (My photos taken there didn't turn out too well, but I might scan one or 2.) The ones on the floor are in situ "and once formed part of a huge panel adorning the courtyard of one of the royal residences" within the complex. "Some are so finely executed they contain 40,000 tesserae per square m." Scenes depicted include "the mythological hero Bellerophon taking on the fire-breathing chimera." (I.G.)
- The 'Istanbul Archaeological Museum' in a monumental, purpose-built, neo-classical bldg. (1891, Turkish-French architect Vallaury), where I pored over ancient sculpture, much that's Hellenistic of course incl. a famous. 2nd cent. BC bust of Alexander the Great (or thought to be) found in the lower agora of Pergamon (but which I don't recall), a 3.5 m. high, 6th cent. BC, Cypriot statue of the Egyptian dwarf god Bes, Roman mosaics, terracotta figurines, column capitols, etc., etc. I saw several famous marble sarcophagi discovered in 1887 in the late 4th cent. BC royal necropolis at Sidon, Phoenicia (which I would tour in 2012), incl. 'the Lycian Sarcophagus', depicting centaurs, sphynxes and griffons, 'the Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women' depicting 18 members of the harem of King Straton (d. 360 BC), and the museum's star attraction, the famous, 15 ton 'Alexander sarcophagus' (312-307 BC). The tomb of Abdalonymos, king of Sidon, and designed in the form of a Greek temple (uniquely so), it depicts battle scenes /b/ the Macedonians and the Persians on one side of its exterior (thought to represent the Battle of Issus in 333 BC) and at one end (thought to represent the Battle of Gaza at which Alexander's generals Ptolemy and Seleucus led a successful invasion of Egypt, and which would lead to the foundation of the Ptolemaic and Seleucid empires) and a hunting scene in which both Macedonians and Persians participate on the other side. A highly detailed, phenomenally well-preserved masterpiece (with some remaining paint), its greatest value is in that it dates from the time of Alexander, only 11-16 yr.s after his death, and so its depiction of him (wearing the skin of the Nemean Lion on his head [he claimed descent from Heracles] and with a ram horn, symbol of the Egyptian god Amun, next to his ear), his army, and of the Persian warriors (each with a cloth stretched over his mouth and chin, and with distinctive head-gear, fully-clothed, etc., whereas some of the Macedonians are nude) is much more revealing than any other more recent depictions such as the famous mosaic at Pompeii. It's thought to depict Hephaestion as well in a lion hunt scene. (It was overpriced, but I put out for one of those folding, connected collections of postcards [8] of details in the high reliefs.) www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4kOClbN83w (According to the RG, gold jewelry from Schliemann's and Dorpfield's digs at Troy [!] and the Siloam inscription from Jerusalem are on display upstairs, which I don't recall. Were the upper floors closed for renovation in 2000?)
- The 'Istanbul Carpet and Kilim Museum' with a collection of carpets and kilims "sourced from mosques throughout Turkey." They date from the 14th (!) to the 20th cent.s and include Usak carpets of the 16th and 17th cent.s, some from the Suleymaniye mosque (huge ones), and Bergama and Konya carpets. "The earlier Anatolian carpets with their geometric and abstract designs are sometimes referred to as 'Holbein carpets' in honour of Dutch artist Hans Holbein the younger who often depicted them in his paintings. Central and Eastern Anatolian motifs displayed include star-shaped medallions and keyholes, the latter said to have been inspired by the mihrab." (LP)
- I saw about as much of the maze that is the Grand bazaar as I could, some parts of which date back to the 9th cent. "With 66 streets and alleys, > 4,000 shops, numerous storehouses, banks ... [etc.] it's said to be the largest covered bazaar in the world." (RG) [Update: Nope, or at least apparently not. In reading and writing about Tabriz, which I would tour 2 mos. later, I'm reminded that the same claim is made for its bazaar, a Unesco site, which "covers some 7 km.s {!} with 24 separate caravanserais and 22 impressive timchehs (domed halls)." I'll compare the dimensions later, but if I'm right, the guidebooks should make a point to get it right too {when do they do that?}, as Istanbul doesn't need the props.] But I don't recall any gunfights or motorbike-chases when I was there.: www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMoR7bgpfU4 I bought and ate much more than my share of Turkish delight and other local treats there and elsewhere. (I bought a silk scarf for my Mom there too.)
- I found one place that I returned to often for lunch where I liked the toasted sandwiches on French bread with sliced and grilled eggplant, etc. I developed a lasting thing for grilled eggplant in Istanbul. Again, Turkish cuisine was generally my favourite of those I sampled that year, across 10 countries.
- www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5sg6Ejm4KM
- At the centre of the site of the ancient Hippodrome, I saw the famous 'Serpent column', a once-3-headed, hollow bronze column of 3 entwined snakes cast in 479 BC and which had formed a high tripod in the temple of Apollo at Delphi where "it was dedicated by the 31 Greek cities that defeated the Persians at Plataea" and was cast from the bronze shields of the Persians who fell at that battle. Constantine brought it to Constantinople in 324 and it stood in the centre of the Hippodrome for many centuries, retaining its heads until as recently as the late 17th cent. (I'll scan a photo). It stood and still stands in a line with the 2 'spina', incl. 'the column of Theodosius, an ancient Egyptian obelisk (only the top 3rd of the soaring, 26-m.-high, 800 tonne original) also imported by Constantine or by his son but named after the emperor who erected it here. ("Commissioned by Pharoah Thutmose III [1549-'03 BC] it was erected originally at Deir el Bahri, opposite Thebes to commemorate one of Thutmoses' campaigns in Syria and his crossing of the Euphrates"; its marble base has reliefs on all 4 sides depicting "Theodosius with his wife watching chariot races, crowning the victors, assisting in the raising of the obelisk, and receiving supplication from vanquished enemies." [I.G.])
- A 2nd ancient obelisk stands just to the north, the 'magnetic' or 'plated column', aka the Column of Constantine Porphyrogenitus, stripped of its metal sheath long ago (likely in the crusades). "Acrobats climbed it in Ottoman times and entertained with tightrope acts from its apex." (I.G.) www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFhjfCBahAM
- "The ancient Hippodrome was the centre of civic affairs in the Byzantne era. Roman Emperor Septimius Severus began construction of the gigantic stadium in 203 AD and Constantine completed it in 330. It provided public entertainment with weekly chariot races and gladiatorial combats and was a forum for the city's rival Greens and Blues factions, whose support the emperor would seek. It was in the Hippodrome, in January 532, that Justinian's generals suppressed the Nika revolt, instigated by members of those 2 factions. Some 30,000 insurgents were slaughtered in a matter of hours." (I.G.)
- A little further to the north sits the elaborate, rotund, domed 'German fountain' dedicated to Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1898 and symbolic of the growing influence of Germany in Turkey in the waning years of the Ottoman empire, which sided with the Central Powers in WWI. (I.G.)
- the famous 'Column of Constantine' (328 AD) aka 'the Burnt column' which once stood in the centre of the Forum of Constantine. (I came across it again in 2012 and write about it here.: www.flickr.com/photos/97924400@N00/8496689352/in/datepost... )
- the "splendidly ornate, 18th cent., Turkish rococo" fountain of Ahmet III, with its "stylized, massively overhanging eaves topped by 5 small domes. At each corner are counters covered by ornate, curved marble window grilles, from which refreshments such as iced water and sherbets would have been handed to passers-by in the Ottoman period." (I.G.)
- I vaguely recall the surviving section of the huge, ancient Aqueduct of Valens (late 4th cent. AD), 18.5 m.s high at the highest intact portion. The Turks made use of it too, maintaining it until the late 19th cent., and so it could be the aqueduct in the longest continuous use anywhere. "Built as part of a distribution network that included reservoirs in the Belgrade forest and various cisterns located @ the city centre, more than 600 of is original 1,000 m.s still stand" in some measure. (RG)
- www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX4UJv-eIjQ
- I made a couple of visits to the Iranian embassy to apply for and to obtain my Visa for which there was a fee of $50 U.S. if I recall. The official I dealt with was a nice guy. I befriended a woman from England at the hostel who had applied as well (and paid just as much) but was denied. She was hoping to traverse the place on a round-the-world biking or overland trip that she was on at the time. We sat together under the moon on the roof of the hostel one night and talked and ate our fill of big sticks of the best French bread dipped in a generous jar of Tahini mixed with liquid honey. :)
- I walked north across the Galata bridge crossing the Golden Horn several times, and through Karakoy to Galata, a district which itself was once a Genoese city-state within greater Constantinople (granted to the Genoese by Michael Paleologus in 1261 as a reward for supporting his attempts to drive out the Crusaders). But I missed a climb up the famous but pricey Genoese Galata tower (1349, 61 m.s).
- I came across an unusual, modern synagogue, the Neve Şalom, 1951, low-rise with no windows at the front, which reminded me of the entrance to a nightclub, but which was closed. It suffered 3 terrorist attacks within 20 yr.s.: in 1986 when 22 attendants were murdered by a gunman on Shabbat; in '92, a bombing; and the 3rd, another bombing, 3 yr.s after I was there in 2003.
- Further north, in Beyoglu, I explored the famous, pedestrianized blvd. Istiklal Caddesi (Independence street) and ate at its eateries. (I wound up there again in 2012, quite late. I rented a room in a hotel handy to it that year and learned that it's a 24-hr. venue.)
- It was in Beyoglu by the early 19th cent. that the main European powers chose to build their ambassadorial palaces. I did a walking tour @ those old European embassies one evening, which would've included at least most of the following.: the 'Palais de Hollande', now the Dutch Consulate, "built in 1858 on the site of the 15th cent. home of the 1st Dutch diplomat in Constantinople"; the French Palace (1831) with its large courtyard and formal gardens; the Italian Consulate, "originally the Palazzo di Venezia, built in the 17th cent., and host to Casanova in 1744"; and the 3-story 'British Palace' (1844, restored in 1856) designed in "Anglo-Italian" Renaissance style, with contributions made in 1847-'48 by Charles Barry, the architect of the British Houses of Parliament.
- I took in the Victorian time capsule that is the 'Pera Palace' hotel (1892), designed in flamboyant rococo by Turkish-French architect A. Vallaury, and where Agatha Christie would stay when she came to town in the late '20s and early '30s via the Orient Express (and where they claim she wrote 'Murder on the Orient Express'), and where I was kindly shown her room, no. 411. I recall the elevator on the ground floor too, a vintage piece with an elaborate, iron cage, the first in the city. Other famous types stayed there too incl. Ataturk, Queen Elisabeth of Austria, Greta Garbo, Hitchcock, Hemingway, et al., and even the courtesan/spy Mata Hari.
- I visited the vast Taksim square more than once, with its central 'Republic monument' (1923, designed by sculptor Pietro Canonica), with 'military Ataturk' preceding a statuary group on one side, and 'civilian Ataturk' on the other.
- I explored the night life at bars in the Taksim area on at least one weekend (although Istanbul's no Berlin or NYC).
- I spent a day in the vast 'Harbiye Military Museum', housed in the military academy attended by Ataturk, and toured exhibits spanning the weighty history of the Ottoman empire, with displays of antique weapons, armour, dioramas, paintings of battle-scenes, portraits of sultans, maps (2d & 3D), banners, uniforms, etc. (as you'd expect), and cotton-and-silk-embroidered tents used by campaigning sultans. I saw a portion of the great chain which the Byzantines had stretched across the mouth of the Golden Horn in 1453. (I'll scan a photo). And I attended a performance in a concert hall by marching men in Ottoman-era uniforms with robes, 'the Mehter Janissary band'. www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkJcXjbJZ9o
- www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk9MbYgQGLs
- "Originating in 1289, Mehter Band members were janissaries who accompanied the sultan into battle. The band became an institution, symbolizing the power and independence of the Ottoman empire. In public performances, band members sang songs about their heroic ancestors and Ottoman victories in battle. They were influential in Europe, [contributing to] new musical styles, such as the Spanish 'A la Turca', and inspiring numerous composers (e.g.: Mozart's Marcia Turca and Beethoven's Ruinen von Athens, Opus 113 youtu.be/_p4M343qdXQ ). The kettledrum was introduced to the West as a result of interest in the band." (RG) Who knew?
- I took a boat or ferry at least as far north up along the European shore of the Bosphorus as the imposing, Ottoman Rumeli or Boğazkesen fortress, built by Mehmet II in 1451-'52 in preparation for the Ottoman attack on the city in 1453. (I had a good view of its towers from the water but didn't tour it. I don't mind.) And I faced the vast, 19th cent. Dolmabahce palace by the shore en route.
- I took the ferry across the Bosphorus from one continent to another and enjoyed the famous, romantic view of the old city with its domes and minarets. I also had a view of the Kiz Kulesi, 'Maiden's Tower' aka 'Leander's Tower', on its tiny island. Reconstructed in 1763, the original defensive tower was built in 1170 and was used as a watchtower by the Turks (and as 'Elektra's HQ' in the Bond film 'The World is not Enough'). "The 1st tower [on-site] was built by the Athenian commander Alcibiades in the 5th cent. BC to tax ships passing through the Bosphorus. In the Byzantine period a chain was stretched /b/ it and another tower on the peninsula, again to ensure that passing ships paid up." (RG)
- I disembarked in Üsküdar, toured a bit of the historic centre of that neighborhood and more of the Asian side of Istanbul some, and took in the lovely Mihrimah Sultan Camii (1543-44 and 1548), a work by Mimar Sinan handy to the ferry terminal (I'll scan a photo), and likely the lovely, baroque Ayazma Camii as well (1757-'61, see above), and certainly the huge Selimiye Camii (1801-'05, rebuilt 1825-'28; see my photo of the inner dome of that mosque.)
- I visited the grounds of the vast Selimiye barracks (1800, rebuilt in stone in 1825-'28), made world-famous by Florence Nightingale during the Crimean war (1854-56). (Read the description for the photo taken of the dome in the Selimiye mosque handy to the barracks.)
- I visited and enjoyed a hamam in that area as well my last night in Istanbul before heading out by bus to Bursa. It was likely the one built together with the "nearby" Selimiye Camii "for the use of the barrack's soldiers." (RG)
- I gave the famous, 19th cent. Ottoman Dolmabahçe palace a miss for although it was well-promoted, it was the most expensive sight in town at 25$ U.S. (why so much more than Topkapi [which I toured twice]?), steep for my budget at the time.
- 'The Museum of the Ancient Orient' was closed in 2000 and so I missed the oldest extant peace treaty yet found, a clay copy in cuneiform of the silver original signed by the ancient Egyptians and the Hittites in 1269 B.C..
- I passed on 'the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts' housed in the grand 'Palace of Ibrahim Pasa', Grand Vizier to Suleyman. (He was strangled in Topkapi palace one night in 1536, "one of the many Grand Viziers who lost their lives as a result of Harem intrigue." (I.G.))
- The sites and sights you miss that you didn't hear about when in town or while passing through tend to be the bigger misses I find (naturally, as you might've gone to see them otherwise). In Istanbul these include the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, "the spiritual centre of the Orthodox world since 1599" (RG) and which remains so today; the Zeyrek Camii, former Church of the Pantocrator (12th cent.) with its marble floor with interlacing geometric patterns (beneath the carpets); the side chapel of the former Church of Theotokos Pammakaristos (12th cent.) with its fine Byzantine mosaics, adjacent to the Fethiye Camii in Fatih (I have photos of its exterior but it must've been closed when I was there); the Ahrida synagogue (15th cent., rebuilt 1694) with its pulpit representing Noah's Ark; the 13th-cent. church of St. Mary of the Mongols (the only church in which Orthodox services have been conducted from before the time of the conquest to the present); and the Church of St. Mary of Blachernae and its spring (for the great importance of the former church on-site to Byzantine history. By way of example, on Aug. 14, 944 the church received the letter allegedly sent by Jesus to the Edessan king Abgar V, and the Mandylion, the first and greatest Christian icon). But I did see plenty in 2 weeks if I do say so myself. One new thing that I'd go out of my way to see today which wasn't there in 2000 is a dynamic panorama situated by the Theodosian walls depicting the Ottoman siege of May, 1453. It's the best new panorama that's been installed anywhere in decades (and the only one too, lol).
For your chance to be in Star Wars: Episode VII and to support UNICEF Innovation Labs and Programs, visit: ift.tt/1tjubjk In a special video message from the set of Star Wars: Episode VII, director J.J. Abrams announces the creation of Star Wars: Force for Change, a brand new Star Wars initiative from Disney and Lucasfilm, in collaboration with Bad Robot, dedicated to finding creative solutions to some of the world's biggest problems. The first Star Wars: Force for Change campaign will raise funds and awareness for UNICEF's Innovation Labs and its innovative projects benefitting children in need. To support the launch of Star Wars: Force for Change, Disney has committed $1 million, and fans can now donate directly at Omaze.com/StarWars for a chance to appear in Star Wars: Episode VII. By pledging as little as $10 through the Omaze fundraising platform, any eligible supporter will be automatically entered for a chance to win this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The campaign runs from 12:01am PST on May 21stth until 11:59pm PST July 18th. The Star Wars: Force for Change Grand Prize includes: • Airfare and accommodations to London for one winner and a guest • Behind-the-scenes access on the closed set of Star Wars: Episode VII as VIP guests of J.J. Abrams • Winner will have the opportunity to meet members of the cast • Winner and their guest will then be transformed by makeup and costume teams into a Star Wars character and filmed for a scene in Star Wars: Episode VII Visit ift.tt/1lPMwjl to learn more about this new charitable initiative and the work of UNICEF's Innovation Labs and programs, and be sure to enter through contribution or free entry for your chance to win at omaze.com/starwars. Rules and Restrictions Apply. No purchase necessary to enter or win. Void where prohibited. Promotion begins 12:00:01 Pacific Standard Time May 21, 2014 and ends on 11:59:59 PM Pacific Standard Time July 18, 2014. Must be at least eighteen (18) years of age or the age of majority in your domicile, to enter and a resident of Argentina, Austria, Canada, Cyprus, Estonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, India, Ireland, Japan, Latvia, Lithuania, Mexico, Netherlands, Philippines, Portugal, Romania, Russia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, USA, or the UK, and not a resident of Belgium, Italy, Malta, Singapore, or Thailand. Residents of Australia, Brazil, China and the Republic of Korea are not prohibited from participating, but local rules and laws may restrict or prohibit the award of certain prizes or impose additional restrictions on participation. Rewards are separate from sweepstakes prizes. Rewards are limited in quantity. Odds of winning depend on number of entries. For free entry: (i) send post card to Sponsor at PO Box 3190, 1217 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, California 90408 by applicable mail date; or (ii) visit http://ift.tt/1kpyHda Entrants may receive additional entries via Facebook. Maximum number of entries: 10,000 per Entrant. Travel and accommodations are at Sponsor's discretion and subject to availability and change. Winner and Guest may be required to pass a background screening or security check, to receive the prize and/or reward. Visa conditions may apply. All taxes are Winner's responsibility. Not sponsored, endorsed or administered by, or associated with Facebook®. Residents of certain territories may be required to successfully complete a trivia question to qualify. For full entry requirements, details, limitations and restrictions see Official rules at http://ift.tt/1lRc9Am Sole Sponsor: Omaze, Inc., PO Box 3190, 1217 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90408. Star Wars © & ™ 2014 Lucasfilm Ltd.
The UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost in Dhekelia, a British Overseas Territory, has an interesting history that spans several decades. Here is a summary of its story in 1000 words:
The origins of the UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost can be traced back to the establishment of the United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus (UNFICYP) in 1964. UNFICYP was created to maintain peace and stability on the island following intercommunal violence between Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots. As part of its mission, UNFICYP established various military outposts, including UN 139, to monitor the ceasefire line and prevent further hostilities.
Dhekelia, located in the southeastern part of Cyprus, became a significant area of operations for UNFICYP due to its strategic location. In 1974, following a coup d'état in Cyprus and subsequent Turkish military intervention, the island was divided into two parts: the Republic of Cyprus in the south, predominantly inhabited by Greek Cypriots, and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus in the north, inhabited mainly by Turkish Cypriots. The area around Dhekelia fell under the control of the British military.
With the new political landscape, the UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost gained importance as it played a crucial role in monitoring the ceasefire line between the two sides. The outpost served as a base for peacekeepers from Slovakia, who were part of the UNFICYP contingent. Their main tasks included patrolling the buffer zone, conducting observation and reporting activities, and providing support to local communities affected by the conflict.
Over the years, the UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost witnessed several developments and challenges. In the late 1970s, tensions between the two communities remained high, leading to occasional outbreaks of violence. UNFICYP, including the soldiers stationed at the outpost, worked tirelessly to defuse tensions and maintain a peaceful environment. They also facilitated dialogue between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities in an effort to promote reconciliation and find a lasting solution to the conflict.
In the 1990s, UNFICYP's role expanded to include humanitarian and development activities. The UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost played a crucial role in supporting these efforts. Peacekeepers engaged in various community-based projects, such as renovating schools and medical facilities, providing assistance to refugees, and promoting intercultural dialogue. These initiatives aimed to foster trust and understanding between the communities and contribute to the overall peacebuilding process.
The early 2000s marked a turning point in the Cyprus peace process. The UNFICYP mandate was extended, and efforts intensified to reach a comprehensive settlement between the Greek and Turkish Cypriots. The UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost remained an integral part of these endeavors, with peacekeepers actively participating in confidence-building measures and supporting the implementation of peace agreements.
In recent years, the situation in Cyprus has seen some positive developments. The resumption of talks between the leaders of the two communities has raised hopes for a peaceful resolution to the conflict. The UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost continues to play its role in monitoring the ceasefire line and supporting peacebuilding efforts. Peacekeepers from Slovakia work alongside troops from other contributing countries, demonstrating the international community's commitment to maintaining stability in the region.
The UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost has not been without its challenges. The buffer zone it monitors is an area of tension and occasional incidents. There have been instances of unauthorized crossings and violations of the ceasefire agreement. However, the presence of UNFICYP and its outposts, including UN 139, acts as a deterrent and helps to mitigate potential conflicts.
As of today, the UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost remains operational, with peacekeepers from Slovakia continuing their mission in Cyprus. They work in collaboration with other UNFICYP units, local authorities, and international partners to create an environment conducive to peace and stability. Their commitment and dedication contribute to the ongoing efforts to find a comprehensive solution to the Cyprus issue.
In conclusion, the UN 139 Slovakia Military Outpost in Dhekelia, a British Overseas Territory, has played a vital role in the United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus. Throughout its history, it has served as a base for peacekeepers from Slovakia who have worked tirelessly to monitor the ceasefire line, support peacebuilding initiatives, and promote dialogue between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities. As the Cyprus peace process continues, the outpost remains an important component in the pursuit of a lasting and peaceful resolution to the conflict.
Akrotiri and Dhekelia, officially the Sovereign Base Areas of Akrotiri and Dhekelia (SBA), is a British Overseas Territory on the island of Cyprus. The areas, which include British military bases and installations formerly part of the Crown colony of Cyprus, were retained by the British under the 1960 treaty of independence signed by the United Kingdom, Greece, Turkey and representatives from the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities. The territory serves an important role as a station for signals intelligence and provides a vital strategic part of the United Kingdom surveillance-gathering network in the Mediterranean and the Middle East.
History
The Sovereign Base Areas were created in 1960 by the London and Zürich Agreements, when Cyprus achieved independence from the British Empire, as recorded by the United Nations in 1960 as treaty 5476. The United Kingdom desired to retain sovereignty over these areas, as this guaranteed the use of UK military bases on Cyprus, including RAF Akrotiri, and a garrison of the British Army. The importance of the bases to the British is based on the strategic location of the island, at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean, close to the Suez Canal and the Middle East; the ability to use the RAF base as staging post for military aircraft; and for training.
Garrison officers' mess Dhekelia, 1969
In July and August 1961, there were a series of bomb attacks against the pipeline carrying fresh water to the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area. The pipeline was breached by explosions twelve times.
In the early 1970s the U.S. built an over-the-horizon radar named Cobra Shoe, which could observe aeroplane operations and missile tests in southern Russia. This was operated by the RAF on behalf of the USAF. This augmented an earlier British system built in the early 1960s named Project Sandra. The U.S. use of the base was hidden from the Cypriot government due to their sensitivities.
In 1974, following a military coup by the Cypriot National Guard, Turkey invaded the north of Cyprus, leading to the establishment of the internationally unrecognized Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. This did not affect the status of the bases. Greek Cypriots fleeing from the Turkish forces were permitted to travel through the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area and were given humanitarian aid, with those from Achna setting up a new village (Dasaki Achnas or Achna Forest) which is still in the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area. The Turkish advance halted when it reached the edge of the Dhekelia Sovereign Base Area to avoid military conflict with the United Kingdom. In the Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area a tented refugee camp was set up at "Happy Valley" (part of the Episkopi Cantonment) to house Turkish Cypriots fleeing from Limassol and the villages surrounding the Area, until in 1975 they were flown out of RAF Akrotiri via Turkey to northern Cyprus. Some Greek Cypriot refugees remain housed on land in the parts of Trachoni and Kolossi villages that fall within the Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area.
In 1974, the British government decided that British forces would be entirely withdrawn from Cyprus, because the sprawling bases had become undefendable in the light of increasing troop demands in Northern Ireland, and because of pressure on the defence budget.[citation needed] The U.S. very strongly objected to any British withdrawal that would result in the United States losing access to GCHQ signals intelligence from Cyprus, since it had lost access to its many signals intelligence bases in Turkey due to its political dispute with Turkey following the invasion of Cyprus. The U.S. agreed to contribute to base costs, and the British cancelled the closure plan. U.S. use of the base increased, such as Lockheed U-2 spy flights on Syria, though flights were generally at night "to avoid local curiosity".
Politics
Current status
The territory is composed of two base areas. One is Akrotiri (Greek: Ακρωτήρι pronounced [akroˈtiri]; Turkish: Ağrotur Turkish pronunciation: [ˈaːɾotuɾ]), or the Western Sovereign Base Area (WSBA), which includes two main bases at RAF Akrotiri and Episkopi Cantonment, plus all of Akrotiri Village's district (including Limassol Salt Lake) and parts of eleven other village districts. The other area is Dhekelia Cantonment (Δεκέλεια Greek pronunciation: [ðeˈceʎa]; Dikelya), or the Eastern Sovereign Base Area (ESBA), which includes a base at Ayios Nikolaos plus parts of twelve village districts.
As of late 2023, based units include:
RAF Akrotiri and Episkopi Cantonment:
No. 903 Expeditionary Air Wing RAF
No. 84 Squadron RAF
1st Battalion, Duke of Lancaster's Regiment
Cyprus Operations Support Unit
Cyprus Military Working Dog Troop
Cyprus Joint Police Unit (CJPU)
Dhekelia Cantonment:
1st Battalion, The Rifles
Joint Service Signal Unit (Cyprus)
Ayios Nikolaos Station, in the ESBA, is an ELINT (electronic intelligence) listening station of the UKUSA Agreement intelligence network. The UKUSA signals intelligence system is sometimes known as "ECHELON".
Governance
The SBAs were retained in 1960 to keep military bases in areas under British sovereignty, along with the rights retained to use other sites in what became the territory of the Republic. That makes them different from the other remaining British Overseas Territories.
The basic philosophy of their administration was declared by the British government in Appendix O to the 1960 treaty with Cyprus, which provided that the British government intended:
Not to develop the Sovereign Base Areas for other than military purposes.
Not to set up and administer "colonies".
Not to create customs posts or other frontier barriers between the Sovereign Base Areas and the Republic.
Not to set up or permit the establishment of civilian commercial or industrial enterprises except insofar as these are connected with military requirements, and not otherwise to impair the economic, commercial or industrial unity and life of the Island.
Not to establish commercial or civilian seaports or airports.
Not to allow new settlement of people in the Sovereign Base Areas other than for temporary purposes.
Not to expropriate private property within the Sovereign Base Areas except for military purposes on payment of fair compensation.
Appendix O also provides that various ancient monuments in the SBAs (in particular the site and remains of Kourion, the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates near Kourion, the Stadium of Curium and the Church and remains of the Holy Monastery of St Nicholas of the Cats) should be administered by the Republic of Cyprus. The Cypriot government issues licences for antiquity excavation in the SBAs subject to British consent, and any movable antiquities found in excavations or otherwise discovered become Cypriot state property.
According to the British Ministry of Defence:
Because the SBAs are primarily required as military bases and not ordinary dependent territories, the Administration reports to the Ministry of Defence in London. It has no formal connection with the Foreign and Commonwealth Office or the British High Commission in Nicosia, although there are close informal links with both offices on policy matters.
The territory is administered by an Administrator, who is also the Commander of British Forces Cyprus, which as of September 2022 is Air Vice-marshal Peter J. M. Squires. The Administrator is officially appointed by the British monarch on the advice of the Ministry of Defence. The Administrator has all the executive and legislative authority of a governor of an overseas territory. A Chief Officer is appointed, and is responsible to the Administrator for the day-to-day running of the civil government, with subordinate Area Officers responsible for the civil administration of the two areas. No elections are held in the territory, although British citizens are normally entitled to vote in United Kingdom elections (as British Forces or overseas electors).
The areas have their own legal system, distinct from the United Kingdom and the Republic of Cyprus. This consists of the laws of the Colony of Cyprus as of August 1960, amended as necessary. The laws of Akrotiri and Dhekelia are closely aligned with, and in some cases identical to, the laws operating within the Republic of Cyprus. The Court of the Sovereign Base Areas is concerned with non-military offences committed by any person within Akrotiri and Dhekelia, and law and order is maintained by the Sovereign Base Areas Police, while offences involving British Forces Cyprus and military law are dealt with by the Cyprus Joint Police Unit. Fire and rescue services are provided by the Defence Fire and Risk Management Organisation through stations at Episkopi, Akrotiri, Dhekelia and Ayios Nikolayos. The Defence Medical Services provide emergency ambulance cover based from medical centres in the main bases. All emergency services are accessible from any telephone using the Europe-wide emergency number 112.
Reviews
In January 2010, a newspaper article appeared in the British press claiming that as a result of budgetary constraints arising from the Great Recession, the British Ministry of Defence drew up controversial plans to withdraw the United Kingdom's 3,000 strong garrison and end the use of Cyprus as a staging point for ground forces. The Labour government, under whom the proposal appeared, was replaced by the Cameron–Clegg coalition whose defence review did not mention the issue.
On 15 December 2012 in a written statement to the House of Commons, the UK's Secretary of State for Defence, Philip Hammond, revealed the findings of a report on the SBA military bases following the completion of a review of their operations by Lord Ashcroft:
The Sovereign Base areas are in a region of geo-political importance and high priority for the United Kingdom's long term national security interests ... Our military personnel, United Kingdom civilians and locally employed personnel in the Sovereign Base Areas make a major contribution to the national security of the United Kingdom and will continue to do so in the future.
Dispute and controversies
The Republic of Cyprus claims that the Sovereign Base Areas are a "remnant of colonialism". On 30 June 2005 the House of Representatives of Cyprus unanimously adopted a resolution on the legal status of the base areas originally proposed by Vassos Lyssarides. The resolution refers to "relevant UN decisions on the abolition of colonialism, as well as the fundamental principles of international law, which forbid the occupation of territory within the domain of any other country." It claims that "the United Kingdom does not have substantial sovereignty over the British bases, but it has as much sovereignty as is necessary for military reasons and not for administrative, financial and / or any other reasons." The resolution urged the UK government "to fulfil its financial obligations towards the Republic of Cyprus, which derive from the Treaty of Establishment." It also argued that the UK does not have territorial waters in the areas.
The UK government does not recognise Cypriot claims that the UK's sovereignty in the areas is limited.
In July 2001, protests were held at the bases by local Cypriots, unhappy with British plans to construct radio masts at the bases as part of an upgrade of British military communication posts around the world. Locals claimed the masts would endanger local lives and cause cancer, as well as have a negative effect on wildlife in the area. The British and Cypriot governments jointly commissioned health research from the University of Bristol and the Ministry of Health of the Republic of Cyprus, and that research project reported in 2005 that there was no evidence of health problems being caused by electromagnetic fields from the antennas. The Sovereign Base Areas Administration has carried out assessments and surveys into the effects on wildlife, which have fed into an "Akrotiri Peninsula Environmental Management Plan", published in September 2012.
In 2004, the UK offered to cede 117 square kilometres (45 sq mi) of farmland as part of the rejected Annan Plan for Cyprus.
On 29 August 2013, during the Syrian civil war, some Cypriot and British media sources speculated that long-range ballistic missiles, fired from Syria in retaliation for proposed British involvement in military intervention against the Syrian government of Bashar al-Assad, could hit Cyprus, and could potentially deliver chemical weapons. In some Cypriot media it was stated that the proposed interdiction of the Syrian civil war, utilising Akrotiri and Dhekelia, could recklessly endanger the Cypriot populations near to those bases. Two days earlier, on 27 August 2013, Cypriot foreign minister Ioannis Kasoulides had moved to calm Cypriot concerns, saying that the British bases were unlikely to play a major part in any intervention.
Travel documents
There is normally no passport check at the border from Akrotiri or Dhekelia to Cyprus. Possession of a passport, or an EU-compliant national identity card is generally needed in Cyprus. A passport is required to travel between Cyprus/SBAs and Northern Cyprus. Issues concerning the validity of car insurance and customs are specified by SBAs' administration.
Brexit implications
Under Article 2(1) of the Protocol, the SBAs are partially part of the European Union Customs Union in three domains: VAT, agriculture and fisheries. However, the SBAs are already outside the EU. Therefore, concerns have been raised about the future status of about 15,000 Cypriots (EU citizens) working in the SBA following the UK's 2020 departure from the EU. Cyprus, Republic of Ireland and Spain are the only three EU states that conducted bilateral talks with the UK on the Brexit issue. The talks between the UK and the Republic of Cyprus started in October 2017.
The Brexit withdrawal agreement has a protocol on the SBAs, with provisions essentially maintaining their previous status.
Geography
Akrotiri and Dhekelia cover 3% of the land area of Cyprus, a total of 254 km2 (98 sq mi) (split 123 km2 (47 sq mi) (48.5%) at Akrotiri and 131 km2 (51 sq mi) (51.5%) at Dhekelia). 60% of the land is privately owned as freeholds by Cypriot citizens; the other 40% is controlled by the Ministry of Defence as Crown leasehold land. In January 2014, an agreement between the Cypriot and UK governments was signed, ensuring that residents and property owners in the British Bases will enjoy equal rights for the development of property. In addition to Akrotiri and Dhekelia, the Treaty of Establishment also provided for the continued use by the British Ministry of Defence and the British Armed Forces of certain facilities within the Republic of Cyprus, known as Retained Sites.
Akrotiri is located in the south of the island, near the city of Limassol (or Lemesos). Dhekelia is in the southeast, near Larnaca. Both areas include military bases, as well as farmland and some residential land. Akrotiri is surrounded by territory controlled by the Republic of Cyprus, but Dhekelia also borders on the United Nations (UN) buffer zone and the area controlled by the Turkish forces.
Ayia Napa lies to the east of Dhekelia. The villages of Xylotympou and Ormideia, also in the Republic of Cyprus, are enclaves surrounded by Dhekelia. The Dhekelia Power Station, divided by a British road into two parts, also belongs to the Republic of Cyprus. The northern part is an enclave, like the two villages, whereas the southern part is located by the sea, and therefore not an enclave, though it has no territorial waters of its own.
Territorial waters of 3 nautical miles (5.6 km) are claimed, and the right according to the laws of the UN to extend the claim of up to 12 nautical miles (22.2 km) is reserved.
Cyprus is an important migration flyway for birds between Africa and Europe and millions of birds are killed yearly as they migrate over the island. To protect resident and migratory birds, BirdLife Cyprus and the RSPB survey areas of illegal trapping. More than 150 species of birds, over half of conservation concern, have been trapped in nets, or on limesticks, and it is estimated that organised crime gangs earn over 15 million Euros yearly. The dead birds are sold to provide the main ingredient for ambelopoulia — an illegal delicacy — in the Republic of Cyprus. The 2015 survey estimated a maximum 19 km (12 mi) of mist nets across both the Republic and the British Territories, and more than 5,300 limesticks removed, mainly in the Republic. It is estimated that over 2 million birds were killed in 2015 including over 800,00—0 on British Territories.[49][50] Employing measures such as covert camera surveillance (including a drone), exclusion zones and impounding vehicles, trapping activity at Dhekelia fell by 77.5%. In 2016 an estimated 800,000 birds were killed at Dhekelia and in the following year trapping activity fell by 77.5% and bird deaths to an estimated 180,000.
The Episkopi Cliffs Important Bird Area lies mostly within the western base area, and covers much of the peninsula. It was identified as an IBA in 1989, and became recognised under the Ramsar Convention in 2003. 60% was designated as a Special Protection Area in 2010. Over 300 bird species have been recorded in this area. The wetlands, including the large salt lake, are an important habitat and bird hotspot. These wetlands are an important breeding spot for the ferruginous duck, which has nested there since 2005. Other species that nest in the wetlands include the black-winged stilt, the Kentish plover, the spur-winged lapwing, and the stone-curlew. Black francolins, Cyprus wheatears, Cyprus warblers, Eleonora's falcons, peregrine falcons, griffon vultures, European shags, European rollers, blue rock thrushs, and wallcreepers breed elsewhere in the area, especially around the cliffs.
The beaches in the British Sovereign Base Areas (SBAs) are important nesting sites for the endangered green Chelonia mydas and loggerhead Caretta caretta turtles. The SBA Environment Department, assisted by a large volunteer effort, has monitored turtle nesting success on SBA beaches since 1990. Disturbance to nesting turtles is an issue in some areas due to activities such as camping, driving on beaches and illegal fishing. Sea turtles in Cyprus are protected as priority species under the Protection and Management of Nature and Wildlife Ordinance (implementing the provisions of the Habitats Directive), enacted in 2007.
In December 2015, five Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) were designated in the Cyprus Sovereign Base Areas. The five SACs designated are Akrotiri, Episkopi, Cape Pyla, Dhekelia and Agios Nikolaos. The designations were made under the Protection and Management of Nature and Wildlife Ordinance and will support the existing network (NATURA 2000) of SACs in Cyprus and across Europe.
Demographics
When the areas were being established, the boundaries were deliberately drawn to avoid centres of population. Approximately 18,195 people live in the areas. About 11,000 native Cypriots work in the areas themselves, or on farmland within the boundaries of the areas. The British military and their families make up the rest of the population.
Persons related to the territory may in theory be eligible to claim the British Overseas Territories citizenship (BOTC status) through a personal connection to the areas (i.e., birth on the territory before 1983, or born after 1983 to a parent who was born on the territory before 1983). But unlike most other British Overseas Territories, there is no provision in the 2002 amendment of the British Nationality Act 1981 by which British citizenship (with the right of abode in the United Kingdom) can either be claimed through automatic entitlement or be applied for by means of registration, from or through a sole personal connection to the Base Areas (in comparison, the 2002 Act bestowed British citizenship on all other BOTCs). Hence, non-British and non-military personnel with the connection to the territory cannot live and work in the UK and must use their Cypriot passports to apply for visas to the UK.
Under the terms of the 1960 agreement with Cyprus establishing the Sovereign Base Areas, the United Kingdom is committed not to use the areas for civilian purposes. This was stated in 2002 as the primary reason for the exclusion of the areas from the scope of the British Overseas Territories Act 2002.[citation needed] As of 2010, around 7,195 service personnel of British Forces Cyprus are based at Akrotiri and Dhekelia.
Education
Service Children's Education oversees education for children of personnel and MoD employees. The Eastern Sovereign Base Area is served by Dhekelia Primary School and Ayios Nikolaos Primary School, which are feeders for King Richard School. The Western Sovereign Base Area is served by Episkopi Primary School and Akrotiri Primary School, which are feeders for St. John's School.
Economy
No economic statistics are gathered for Akrotiri and Dhekelia. The main economic activities are the provision of services to the military, as well as limited agriculture. When the territory under the effective control of the Republic of Cyprus switched currencies from the Cypriot pound to the euro on 1 January 2008, Akrotiri and Dhekelia followed suit making the Sovereign Base Areas the only territory under British sovereignty to officially use the euro.
Transport
Cypriot motorways pass through both areas. There is no public airport within the areas, but the RAF Akrotiri airbase is located there, which has a runway suitable for long-distance flights, but is not used for public flights.
Communications
The Base Areas form part of the Republic of Cyprus telephone numbering plan, using the international prefix +357. Landline numbers are in the same eight-digit format, with the last four digits being the line number. Numbers in Dhekelia begin with the digits 2474, while those in Akrotiri begin with the digits 2527.
Postal services are provided by the British Forces Post Office, with mail to Akrotiri being addressed to BFPO 57 and mail to Dhekelia and Ayios Nikolaos being addressed to BFPO 58.[60] Cyprus Postal Services provides postal service for civilian homes and businesses within the Base Areas, then using Cypriot postal codes and "Cyprus" as country on letters from abroad.
The bases are issued different amateur radio call signs from the Republic of Cyprus. Amateur radio stations on the bases use the International Telecommunication Union prefix of "ZC4", which is assigned to Great Britain. There are about 52 amateurs licensed in this manner. Amateur radio direction finding identified RAF Akrotiri as the location of the powerful but now defunct shortwave numbers station "Lincolnshire Poacher". Several curtain antennas there have been identified as being used for these transmissions.
Culture
BBC World Service transmitter masts in Akrotiri
Media
BFBS Radio 1 and 2 are broadcast on FM and can be widely received across Cyprus. BFBS Television is now only available to viewers via satellite, having been confined to the SBAs or encrypted in 1997 for copyright reasons, before BFBS switched off its analogue transmitters in 2009. The British East Mediterranean Relay Station was situated locally.
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